Getting The Lowest Price But......
by: James R Smith
Research shows that shopping for you next vehicle on the Internet has grown in popularity. Some report that more than 75% start there research on the web and 50% request information from one site or another. I want to take a minute and make sure people know what to expect and really what to look for when choosing what to buy and where to do business.
First, all dealers do want to earn your business. All Internet Managers are instructed to provide you with the lowest price. We all pat about the same to get the vehicle and will sell it for true cost. This is without a doubt the easiest part of purchasing a new vehicle. You can almost count on getting the lowest possible price for most cars and trucks. There are always exceptions, high end cars, performance cars, and hard to get vehicles will always fetch a better price, but cars and trucks are easy to replace and the Internet Department's job is to create volume. How better to do this than give away the cars.
Now, if you have read this and wondered why would anyone need to travel to get a "good deal"? Why not just get a quote and drive to the closest dealer and say "beat this and I'll take it" Well, we still live in a day in age where "price" is not the most important thing. It is important but it is not the driving force behind many Americans. If price was the most important thing companies like Ace Hardware and JC Penny would have gone out of business, Home Depot and Wal-Mart would be the only place to buy anything. But while we as Americans demand a good value for or money we also like to get good service while spending that hard earned money.
Now, let's put it all together. All Internet Departments will give you the lowest price. That is a cold hard fact, but you will want to do business with an Internet Department that will give you the great service you demand. This is sometimes a tougher challenge as many Internet Managers give you fleet prices and fleet service. Your vehicle purchase represents a huge expenditure, this is your hard earned money, so why not work with a Internet Department that is willing to give you that low price and still give you the great service..."All for Free"?
This is just some food for thought and something to consider when you get that great low price on your next new vehicle.
About The Author
James Smith is a Certified GMBuypower Manager at Bellamy Strickland Chevrolet Pontiac GMC. With more than 7 years experience in the auto industry he provides experience and a level of service that is hard to beat. Email him with any questions and visit him on the web at http://www.bellamystrickland.com
Friday, July 20, 2007
Dealing With Car Dents The Right Way
Dealing With Car Dents The Right Way
by: Steven Magill
When you are out on the road and driving your new car, you would want to protect your vehicle from damage. You take great caution to avoid hitting into other vehicles especially while parking. However, accidents are bound to happen, even when you are careful. Despite making sure that your car does not get damaged, there are still other drivers out there who are reckless. You only wish they would maintain a safe distance. Aside from these negligent drivers, there are several others factors that could lead to a dent in your car.
Treating car dents
If you do happen to get your car dented for whatever reason, you can take comfort in the fact that there are several reputed car dent removal repair centres that will come to your aid. These dent repair companies are dedicated to restoring the original look of your vehicle. You can leave your dent troubles in the safe hands of these technicians who are trained to look after your car. They will ensure that your dent is no longer visible. When you want the best service for your vehicle, opt for a good quality car dent removal repair company covering area's in and around South Wales, Bridgend, Swansea, Cardiff and Newport.
A professional technician will also let you know the extent of the damage and what needs to be done to rectify it. If your car has minor dents then the repair centre may recommend a Paintless Dent Repair (PDR) job. This type of car dent removal uses tools, which will massage the dent out of your vehicle to keep it looking new. The metal is stretched out and then smoothened, making sure that the paint job will not peel or rip.
There are times when the dent is large and it cannot be repaired using the Paint restoration repair technique or PDR. The only way of treating such dents is through removal of the entire panel. The panel can be removed through pulling and pounding and then later on welding to attach the new portion. Once the welding is done, primer is added on the repaired area to enhance further painting.
DIY (Do-It-Yourself) car dent removal
An alternative to letting your car go through PDR in an auto repair shop is to do your own car dent removal job right at home. However, we would not recommend this as you will end up making matters worse, which could be expensive in the long run. To start with, you will need different kinds of specialist tools. Never mind the years of training it takes to become a PDR technician.
Leave the dent repair to the professionals.
About The Author
There’s a wealth of information that can be found at http://www.dentmasterwales.com . Contact Steve Magill, who is the Managing Director of Dentmaster Wales. Based in South Wales, this leading Smart Repair unit also works in other locations such as Cardiff, Swansea, Newport and Bridgend.
by: Steven Magill
When you are out on the road and driving your new car, you would want to protect your vehicle from damage. You take great caution to avoid hitting into other vehicles especially while parking. However, accidents are bound to happen, even when you are careful. Despite making sure that your car does not get damaged, there are still other drivers out there who are reckless. You only wish they would maintain a safe distance. Aside from these negligent drivers, there are several others factors that could lead to a dent in your car.
Treating car dents
If you do happen to get your car dented for whatever reason, you can take comfort in the fact that there are several reputed car dent removal repair centres that will come to your aid. These dent repair companies are dedicated to restoring the original look of your vehicle. You can leave your dent troubles in the safe hands of these technicians who are trained to look after your car. They will ensure that your dent is no longer visible. When you want the best service for your vehicle, opt for a good quality car dent removal repair company covering area's in and around South Wales, Bridgend, Swansea, Cardiff and Newport.
A professional technician will also let you know the extent of the damage and what needs to be done to rectify it. If your car has minor dents then the repair centre may recommend a Paintless Dent Repair (PDR) job. This type of car dent removal uses tools, which will massage the dent out of your vehicle to keep it looking new. The metal is stretched out and then smoothened, making sure that the paint job will not peel or rip.
There are times when the dent is large and it cannot be repaired using the Paint restoration repair technique or PDR. The only way of treating such dents is through removal of the entire panel. The panel can be removed through pulling and pounding and then later on welding to attach the new portion. Once the welding is done, primer is added on the repaired area to enhance further painting.
DIY (Do-It-Yourself) car dent removal
An alternative to letting your car go through PDR in an auto repair shop is to do your own car dent removal job right at home. However, we would not recommend this as you will end up making matters worse, which could be expensive in the long run. To start with, you will need different kinds of specialist tools. Never mind the years of training it takes to become a PDR technician.
Leave the dent repair to the professionals.
About The Author
There’s a wealth of information that can be found at http://www.dentmasterwales.com . Contact Steve Magill, who is the Managing Director of Dentmaster Wales. Based in South Wales, this leading Smart Repair unit also works in other locations such as Cardiff, Swansea, Newport and Bridgend.
Killing your Driver Examiner (And 5 Other Mistakes to Avoid on Your Road Test)
Killing your Driver Examiner (And 5 Other Mistakes to Avoid on Your Road Test)
by: Jeff Kelly
If you're one of the millions of people who will take their driving test in the United States this year, chances are it's a very big deal to you. For teens, passing the driving test marks a right of passage and is one of the biggest accomplishments in a young person's life. For others, passing the road test can mean the freedom to take better care of their family or to pursue a more lucrative job.
Unfortunately, about half of those taking their test for the first time will fail. And it happens for a variety of reasons. As a former DMV examiner, I have seen just about everything that can happen on a road test. I've been in a car that has pulled in front of an oncoming semi, I've been rear-ended after stopping for no apparent reason and I've had someone hit the gas instead of the brake and plough right into the DMV building (much to the delight of my fellow examiners). I've even seen other examiners end up in the hospital. If you have a flair for the dramatic and a car that you're looking to get rid of, there are plenty of heart-stopping ways to fail your drivers test. Here are five mistakes that may seem harmless but can lead to dangerous situations.
1. Stopping in a yield.
Looking for an excellent way to get hit from behind and fail your drivers exam? Look no further. Stopping unnecessarily in a yield is a great way to write off that old clunker that mom lent you for the road test. Even if you don't get hit from behind, simply forcing the person behind you to slow or stop unnecessarily will probably get you a failure. The correct procedure? As you enter a yield to make right hand turn, look at the traffic in front of you. If it is slowing or coming to a stop, do the same. If it is not stopping or slowing down, take a look to your left to ensure that it is safe for you to go. If there is no traffic coming and it is clear in front of you, keep it moving!! On the other hand, if it isn't safe to proceed, then slow down or stop. The point is that you should keep moving if it is safe to do so. Otherwise, you may find your trunk in your back seat.
2. Signalling too soon.
Where there are two upcoming streets on the right side of your vehicle and the driver examiner tells you to make a right hand turn at the second one, ensure that you do not start signalling until you have passed or are very close to passing the first street. The reason for this? If you signal too soon, traffic waiting at the first street may see you approaching with your signal on, assume that you are turning right away and pull out in front of you. Anyone for a juicy t-bone? Ouch.
3. Signalling too late. Signalling too late is also a problem. When making a turn, make sure that you signal before you start braking. This warns the car behind you that you will be slowing down and gives them extra time to prepare for it. Even if you don't cause an accident, signalling too late will cost you points on your test.
4. Hesitating.
Often, new drivers are either so nervous or so determined to show the examiner how careful they are that they hesitate to go when it is safe to do so. Sometimes they even wait for awhile, realize that they should have gone earlier and then pull out in front of oncoming traffic at the last second (kind of like a squirrel crossing the street). It's one thing to make sure that it is safe before proceeding. It's another thing to sit there so long that your car begins to rust. Be careful but be confident. Hesitating is not only a nuisance to other drivers but can result in a dangerous situation.
5. Backing up improperly.
This one happens A LOT, usually right at the start of the road test. If you are parked in a stall at the beginning of your test and need to back up, make sure that you are aware of the vehicles parked on either side of your car. Remember that if you are looking behind you and start turning the steering wheel as soon as you begin to back up, the front end of your car will swing out sideways and hit the parked car next to you. I can't tell you how many times I had to grab the wheel out of someone's hand to prevent this from happening. It's an automatic failure so be careful. Make sure that you have backed up straight far enough so that when you turn the wheel, the front of your car will clear the car parked next to you.
Remember these five driving tips and keep both you and your examiner on the road and out of the hospital. Good luck and good driving!
About The Author
Jeff Kelly is a former Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) examiner and has taken thousands of Americans on their road tests. Jeff is also the author of "How to Pass Your Drivers Test: The Secrets Revealed". Visit his site at http://www.driverstestsecrets.com
by: Jeff Kelly
If you're one of the millions of people who will take their driving test in the United States this year, chances are it's a very big deal to you. For teens, passing the driving test marks a right of passage and is one of the biggest accomplishments in a young person's life. For others, passing the road test can mean the freedom to take better care of their family or to pursue a more lucrative job.
Unfortunately, about half of those taking their test for the first time will fail. And it happens for a variety of reasons. As a former DMV examiner, I have seen just about everything that can happen on a road test. I've been in a car that has pulled in front of an oncoming semi, I've been rear-ended after stopping for no apparent reason and I've had someone hit the gas instead of the brake and plough right into the DMV building (much to the delight of my fellow examiners). I've even seen other examiners end up in the hospital. If you have a flair for the dramatic and a car that you're looking to get rid of, there are plenty of heart-stopping ways to fail your drivers test. Here are five mistakes that may seem harmless but can lead to dangerous situations.
1. Stopping in a yield.
Looking for an excellent way to get hit from behind and fail your drivers exam? Look no further. Stopping unnecessarily in a yield is a great way to write off that old clunker that mom lent you for the road test. Even if you don't get hit from behind, simply forcing the person behind you to slow or stop unnecessarily will probably get you a failure. The correct procedure? As you enter a yield to make right hand turn, look at the traffic in front of you. If it is slowing or coming to a stop, do the same. If it is not stopping or slowing down, take a look to your left to ensure that it is safe for you to go. If there is no traffic coming and it is clear in front of you, keep it moving!! On the other hand, if it isn't safe to proceed, then slow down or stop. The point is that you should keep moving if it is safe to do so. Otherwise, you may find your trunk in your back seat.
2. Signalling too soon.
Where there are two upcoming streets on the right side of your vehicle and the driver examiner tells you to make a right hand turn at the second one, ensure that you do not start signalling until you have passed or are very close to passing the first street. The reason for this? If you signal too soon, traffic waiting at the first street may see you approaching with your signal on, assume that you are turning right away and pull out in front of you. Anyone for a juicy t-bone? Ouch.
3. Signalling too late. Signalling too late is also a problem. When making a turn, make sure that you signal before you start braking. This warns the car behind you that you will be slowing down and gives them extra time to prepare for it. Even if you don't cause an accident, signalling too late will cost you points on your test.
4. Hesitating.
Often, new drivers are either so nervous or so determined to show the examiner how careful they are that they hesitate to go when it is safe to do so. Sometimes they even wait for awhile, realize that they should have gone earlier and then pull out in front of oncoming traffic at the last second (kind of like a squirrel crossing the street). It's one thing to make sure that it is safe before proceeding. It's another thing to sit there so long that your car begins to rust. Be careful but be confident. Hesitating is not only a nuisance to other drivers but can result in a dangerous situation.
5. Backing up improperly.
This one happens A LOT, usually right at the start of the road test. If you are parked in a stall at the beginning of your test and need to back up, make sure that you are aware of the vehicles parked on either side of your car. Remember that if you are looking behind you and start turning the steering wheel as soon as you begin to back up, the front end of your car will swing out sideways and hit the parked car next to you. I can't tell you how many times I had to grab the wheel out of someone's hand to prevent this from happening. It's an automatic failure so be careful. Make sure that you have backed up straight far enough so that when you turn the wheel, the front of your car will clear the car parked next to you.
Remember these five driving tips and keep both you and your examiner on the road and out of the hospital. Good luck and good driving!
About The Author
Jeff Kelly is a former Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) examiner and has taken thousands of Americans on their road tests. Jeff is also the author of "How to Pass Your Drivers Test: The Secrets Revealed". Visit his site at http://www.driverstestsecrets.com
Mobile Paintless Dent Removal: The New Age Miracle Cure
Mobile Paintless Dent Removal: The New Age Miracle Cure
by: Steven Magill
PDR paintless dent removal: AMAZING miracle cure for dents.
Ever had a hailstorm only to discover that it's taken its toll on your car via tiny dents all over it! Yes, time and again we have all faced some form of damage to the surface of our cars – and each time it happens, our heart breaks a little more. After all, we're all possessive about our cars – it's personal. It's yours.
So what do you do next?
So now you've had this dent in your car and you're looking for a method of fixing it. You could go the conventional way and call up the standard dent removal companies. But then imagine what your car would look like with varying hues of the same color at different places on the car surface? Hideous, right? That's where modern day technology comes to the rescue – it's called mobile paintless dent removal. It's efficient, effective and best of all you don't need to even lift a finger! This is a new technique that is slowly catching up among dent removal companies. It involves gentle massaging of the dents without any damage to surface paint.
Why is mobile paintless dent removal so great?
One reason why this new age technique works so great is because it never hurts the paint on your car! With highly sophisticated tools, the damage is addressed from its root cause – from behind the paint. That means no more sanding, no more painting over the surface and definitely no body filling needed! Mobile paintless dent removal involves carefully working upon each dent to restore it back to its original shape and size. In fact after the repair no one would ever be able to tell that your car suffered a dent! This technique is a highly skilled art – one that necessitates in-depth expertise and qualifications. Very few companies have the necessary expertise to carry it off but the few that do – they're well worth spending on. The best thing about mobile paintless dent removal is that these technicians will come to you – you will never need to go to them for repair work on your car.
Origins of this method
It all started in the early 1980s – when mobile paintless dent removal was still at its fledgling stages. In those times, it was restricted to only very small dents that could easily be removed. However, as this technique began to gain popularity, the PDR or Paintless Dent Removal technicians began trying it on bigger dents. Very soon they found that even huge dents could be completely eliminated without leaving a trace behind!
Exceptions to the rule: scenarios where mobile paintless dent removal may not work
Just as in any other case, even in this dent removal technique, there are certain situations where the method may not work as well as expected. The technique will not work if there happens to be a crack on the surface paint. It may be possible if there are edges.
Most of the automobiles are suitable candidates for mobile paintless dent removal.
About The Author
Steve Magill, the managing director of DENT MASTERWALES LTD, believes that mobile dent repair services will take away your stress when you dent your car. Our services will help save you time and money, and at the same time provide complete satisfaction through an effective dent removal process. You can find more information on how to save money through PDR and dent repairs and at http://www.dentmasterwales.com
by: Steven Magill
PDR paintless dent removal: AMAZING miracle cure for dents.
Ever had a hailstorm only to discover that it's taken its toll on your car via tiny dents all over it! Yes, time and again we have all faced some form of damage to the surface of our cars – and each time it happens, our heart breaks a little more. After all, we're all possessive about our cars – it's personal. It's yours.
So what do you do next?
So now you've had this dent in your car and you're looking for a method of fixing it. You could go the conventional way and call up the standard dent removal companies. But then imagine what your car would look like with varying hues of the same color at different places on the car surface? Hideous, right? That's where modern day technology comes to the rescue – it's called mobile paintless dent removal. It's efficient, effective and best of all you don't need to even lift a finger! This is a new technique that is slowly catching up among dent removal companies. It involves gentle massaging of the dents without any damage to surface paint.
Why is mobile paintless dent removal so great?
One reason why this new age technique works so great is because it never hurts the paint on your car! With highly sophisticated tools, the damage is addressed from its root cause – from behind the paint. That means no more sanding, no more painting over the surface and definitely no body filling needed! Mobile paintless dent removal involves carefully working upon each dent to restore it back to its original shape and size. In fact after the repair no one would ever be able to tell that your car suffered a dent! This technique is a highly skilled art – one that necessitates in-depth expertise and qualifications. Very few companies have the necessary expertise to carry it off but the few that do – they're well worth spending on. The best thing about mobile paintless dent removal is that these technicians will come to you – you will never need to go to them for repair work on your car.
Origins of this method
It all started in the early 1980s – when mobile paintless dent removal was still at its fledgling stages. In those times, it was restricted to only very small dents that could easily be removed. However, as this technique began to gain popularity, the PDR or Paintless Dent Removal technicians began trying it on bigger dents. Very soon they found that even huge dents could be completely eliminated without leaving a trace behind!
Exceptions to the rule: scenarios where mobile paintless dent removal may not work
Just as in any other case, even in this dent removal technique, there are certain situations where the method may not work as well as expected. The technique will not work if there happens to be a crack on the surface paint. It may be possible if there are edges.
Most of the automobiles are suitable candidates for mobile paintless dent removal.
About The Author
Steve Magill, the managing director of DENT MASTERWALES LTD, believes that mobile dent repair services will take away your stress when you dent your car. Our services will help save you time and money, and at the same time provide complete satisfaction through an effective dent removal process. You can find more information on how to save money through PDR and dent repairs and at http://www.dentmasterwales.com
Diesel vs. Unleaded: The Truth About Fuel Economy
Diesel vs. Unleaded: The Truth About Fuel Economy
by: Gina Sarento
Ahh, you remember it, don't you? Sitting in the back of your family's station wagon as a kid, your father pulls up to the gas pump and a station attendant—an occupation about as extinct as the dinosaurs—came running out with a rag in his hand, leaned into the driver's window and said… "Diesel or unleaded?"
Those days are long gone. And I'm not just referring to the attendant. Nowadays, at least in the U.S., you can expect to find three things at a gas pump: self-serve, pay first, and unleaded gasoline only.
Misconceptions about diesel fuel being "dirtier" than unleaded gas several years ago ultimately led to diesel's obsolescence in the more environmentally progressive United States. Car companies began to manufacture cars that, for the most part, ran on traditional gasoline.
In response, however, steps were taken to improve the cleanliness of diesel and now major car companies have begun to sell diesel-powered vehicles to consumers once again.
In the past, especially in the United States, diesel fuel was considerably dirtier than unleaded gasoline. Vehicles in the United States also tended to be built for traditional gasoline, with the exception of large trucks, buses, and semis. In recent years, however, steps have been taken to improve the cleanliness of diesel fuel through regulation, and many companies have begun selling popular consumer cars that run on diesel fuel.
One such company is Isuzu Motors, known for its popular 5-passenger Ascender SUV, and two models of high-performing pick up trucks (the i-290 and i-370). Isuzu's diesel engines have won a laundry list of awards in past years including "Truck of the Year" by Motor Trend Magazine, "Executive Diesel Car of the Year 2002" by Diesel Car Magazine (a publication in the U.K.), "Germany's best small and compact car of the Year 2001" by Mot Magazine (published in Germany), as well as having been named multiple times by Ward's Communications of the U.S. as one of the "10 Best Engines." In addition, Isuzu vehicles were voted the top medium-duty truck brand six times in seven years by truck dealers. Impressive, but not fully convinced that diesel's better? Keep reading…
Diesel fuel actually burns more efficiently than gasoline, thus having a better fuel economy—about 30% more efficient on average. Why?
Diesel is denser than its unleaded competitor. Proponents of gasoline are quick to point out that diesel engines produce more greenhouse emissions, which is true, emissions with diesel are about 15% higher than those of traditional unleaded gas due to higher volumetric energy density. However, the increased fuel efficiency more than offsets the higher percentage, so in the long run, diesels produce less emissions— 15% more per gallon used, but a trip in the good ole family car will use 30% less fuel to get to wherever you're going.
Granted, this wasn't the case with Dad's old wagon. Back then, before the anti-diesel crusade, diesel engines were creating more emissions because they simply weren't efficient. Now, with the modern diesel engine achieving a 20- 40% better fuel economy, it's time to give diesel a second look.
But that's not the only exciting news about diesel. Originally, the diesel engine was created as a way to run vehicles using vegetable oils. While farmers originally couldn't compete with big oil companies, with gas prices soaring, there's been a renewed interest in alternative fuel sources—and food-based diesel fuels can be produced quickly, cheaply, and with the abundance of products grown in our very own country. These "hybrid diesels" also known as "biodiesel" are compatible with existing diesel engines and can also be made from waste oils gathered from restaurants or homes—an alternative that serves several ecological benefits at the same time.
About The Author
Gina Sarento
Isuzu has an all new truck, the http://www.isuzu.com/i370.jsp i370 is a light duty truck that everyone will be driving. Isuzu also has some of the http://www.isuzu.com/ best suv's on the market. So visit your local dealer or go online at http://Isuzu.com!
by: Gina Sarento
Ahh, you remember it, don't you? Sitting in the back of your family's station wagon as a kid, your father pulls up to the gas pump and a station attendant—an occupation about as extinct as the dinosaurs—came running out with a rag in his hand, leaned into the driver's window and said… "Diesel or unleaded?"
Those days are long gone. And I'm not just referring to the attendant. Nowadays, at least in the U.S., you can expect to find three things at a gas pump: self-serve, pay first, and unleaded gasoline only.
Misconceptions about diesel fuel being "dirtier" than unleaded gas several years ago ultimately led to diesel's obsolescence in the more environmentally progressive United States. Car companies began to manufacture cars that, for the most part, ran on traditional gasoline.
In response, however, steps were taken to improve the cleanliness of diesel and now major car companies have begun to sell diesel-powered vehicles to consumers once again.
In the past, especially in the United States, diesel fuel was considerably dirtier than unleaded gasoline. Vehicles in the United States also tended to be built for traditional gasoline, with the exception of large trucks, buses, and semis. In recent years, however, steps have been taken to improve the cleanliness of diesel fuel through regulation, and many companies have begun selling popular consumer cars that run on diesel fuel.
One such company is Isuzu Motors, known for its popular 5-passenger Ascender SUV, and two models of high-performing pick up trucks (the i-290 and i-370). Isuzu's diesel engines have won a laundry list of awards in past years including "Truck of the Year" by Motor Trend Magazine, "Executive Diesel Car of the Year 2002" by Diesel Car Magazine (a publication in the U.K.), "Germany's best small and compact car of the Year 2001" by Mot Magazine (published in Germany), as well as having been named multiple times by Ward's Communications of the U.S. as one of the "10 Best Engines." In addition, Isuzu vehicles were voted the top medium-duty truck brand six times in seven years by truck dealers. Impressive, but not fully convinced that diesel's better? Keep reading…
Diesel fuel actually burns more efficiently than gasoline, thus having a better fuel economy—about 30% more efficient on average. Why?
Diesel is denser than its unleaded competitor. Proponents of gasoline are quick to point out that diesel engines produce more greenhouse emissions, which is true, emissions with diesel are about 15% higher than those of traditional unleaded gas due to higher volumetric energy density. However, the increased fuel efficiency more than offsets the higher percentage, so in the long run, diesels produce less emissions— 15% more per gallon used, but a trip in the good ole family car will use 30% less fuel to get to wherever you're going.
Granted, this wasn't the case with Dad's old wagon. Back then, before the anti-diesel crusade, diesel engines were creating more emissions because they simply weren't efficient. Now, with the modern diesel engine achieving a 20- 40% better fuel economy, it's time to give diesel a second look.
But that's not the only exciting news about diesel. Originally, the diesel engine was created as a way to run vehicles using vegetable oils. While farmers originally couldn't compete with big oil companies, with gas prices soaring, there's been a renewed interest in alternative fuel sources—and food-based diesel fuels can be produced quickly, cheaply, and with the abundance of products grown in our very own country. These "hybrid diesels" also known as "biodiesel" are compatible with existing diesel engines and can also be made from waste oils gathered from restaurants or homes—an alternative that serves several ecological benefits at the same time.
About The Author
Gina Sarento
Isuzu has an all new truck, the http://www.isuzu.com/i370.jsp i370 is a light duty truck that everyone will be driving. Isuzu also has some of the http://www.isuzu.com/ best suv's on the market. So visit your local dealer or go online at http://Isuzu.com!
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Easy Motor Loans: Now Buy A Car At Your Comfort
Easy Motor Loans: Now Buy A Car At Your Comfort
by: Eunice Scott
While looking for a car loan, borrowers prefer an option where they have the least hassles in addition to low rates of interest. Easy motor loans are a quick answer to this. They provide you with the best of terms and conditions that make it an appropriate option to avail.
Before looking for easy motor loans, the borrower should make some effort in deciding beforehand and work out the details about the motor that he wants to buy. The model of the car, the make, accessories etc all have to be decided before the borrower applies for the easy motor loans.
The borrower should make sure that he has the easy motor loans approved before he goes to the car showroom so that he is not lured away from his pre-decided specifications by the showroom owner for some other deal. While applying for easy motor loans, the borrower should be careful about any hidden fee and processing charges which may amount to a lot.
Easy motor loans can be secured by pledging the very same car as collateral. This will help him in obtaining a lower rate of interest. Unsecured easy motor loans help the borrower in obtaining money for the car without any security. The amount that is borrowed has to be repaid in a term of 2-7 years. The term is short as the value of the car starts to depreciate after this duration.
Bad credit borrowers can also avail easy motor loans. The rate of interest charged is slightly higher than the usual but that can be cut down with the help of proper research for finding a suitable lender.
Online research can help a lot in finding easy motor loans. Quotes can be obtained online and then a proper comparison of these quotes can help in finding a suitable deal for easy motor loans.
Easy motor loans are a very comfortable way to borrow money for buying a car. The terms and conditions provided are suitable to the borrower. Easy motor loans thus prove to be a highly borrower-friendly deal.
About The Author
Eunice Scott is a financial advisor at MotorLoansUK and provides advices on finance and insurance. In recent years he has taken up to provide independent financial advice through his informative articles. To know more about Easy Motor Loans visit http://www.motorloansuk.co.uk
by: Eunice Scott
While looking for a car loan, borrowers prefer an option where they have the least hassles in addition to low rates of interest. Easy motor loans are a quick answer to this. They provide you with the best of terms and conditions that make it an appropriate option to avail.
Before looking for easy motor loans, the borrower should make some effort in deciding beforehand and work out the details about the motor that he wants to buy. The model of the car, the make, accessories etc all have to be decided before the borrower applies for the easy motor loans.
The borrower should make sure that he has the easy motor loans approved before he goes to the car showroom so that he is not lured away from his pre-decided specifications by the showroom owner for some other deal. While applying for easy motor loans, the borrower should be careful about any hidden fee and processing charges which may amount to a lot.
Easy motor loans can be secured by pledging the very same car as collateral. This will help him in obtaining a lower rate of interest. Unsecured easy motor loans help the borrower in obtaining money for the car without any security. The amount that is borrowed has to be repaid in a term of 2-7 years. The term is short as the value of the car starts to depreciate after this duration.
Bad credit borrowers can also avail easy motor loans. The rate of interest charged is slightly higher than the usual but that can be cut down with the help of proper research for finding a suitable lender.
Online research can help a lot in finding easy motor loans. Quotes can be obtained online and then a proper comparison of these quotes can help in finding a suitable deal for easy motor loans.
Easy motor loans are a very comfortable way to borrow money for buying a car. The terms and conditions provided are suitable to the borrower. Easy motor loans thus prove to be a highly borrower-friendly deal.
About The Author
Eunice Scott is a financial advisor at MotorLoansUK and provides advices on finance and insurance. In recent years he has taken up to provide independent financial advice through his informative articles. To know more about Easy Motor Loans visit http://www.motorloansuk.co.uk
Ford vs Chevy: The Debate Goes On, Part 1
Ford vs Chevy: The Debate Goes On, Part 1
by: Gabriel Adams
We have all seen then the bumper stickers that say I would rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy. For many people, it is the truth. There is a great deal of consumer loyalty when it comes to Ford and Chevy. In fact, there is even a Playstation 2 game called Ford vs. Chevy. It may have to do with owning a particular vehicle that excelled so they stayed with that manufacturer. Maybe their family owned Ford’s or Chevy’s and they went with what was familiar.
Ford and Chevy continue to be stiff competitors out there. Ford does seem to excel though in many areas. If you want speed the Ford Mustang will out do the Chevy Corvette hands down. Chevy is in the process of making a come back with the Chevy Camaro but fans of the Camaro aren’t taking to the new design very well.
Ford Pickups are available in a variety of sizes from small trucks to large work trucks. The Ford F-150 is their basic full size truck, but they have smaller models, such as the Ranger, and larger models like the F-850 for super heavy duty hauling. Chevy has several of them as well. The safety ratings for Ford are slightly better though when several of the same style of pickups were compared to each other.
Mini vans are very popular these days as they look sporty and they offer plenty of room. The Ford Windstar and the Chevy Venture both offer plenty of room. Yet the Ford Windstar is more stylish and offers more features.
Ford also has the Ford Escape, which Chevy does not really have a good answer to. The Escape has good mpg, at about 24, but it still has the power to tow 3,500 pounds with the towing package. It's a great vehicle for anyone who does need the extra room and towing power larger SUVs offer, because the Escape is great on gas, easy and fun to drive, and affordable.
About The Author
Gabriel Adams
Learn all you need to know about Ford vehicles at http://www.fordfaqs.com/
by: Gabriel Adams
We have all seen then the bumper stickers that say I would rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy. For many people, it is the truth. There is a great deal of consumer loyalty when it comes to Ford and Chevy. In fact, there is even a Playstation 2 game called Ford vs. Chevy. It may have to do with owning a particular vehicle that excelled so they stayed with that manufacturer. Maybe their family owned Ford’s or Chevy’s and they went with what was familiar.
Ford and Chevy continue to be stiff competitors out there. Ford does seem to excel though in many areas. If you want speed the Ford Mustang will out do the Chevy Corvette hands down. Chevy is in the process of making a come back with the Chevy Camaro but fans of the Camaro aren’t taking to the new design very well.
Ford Pickups are available in a variety of sizes from small trucks to large work trucks. The Ford F-150 is their basic full size truck, but they have smaller models, such as the Ranger, and larger models like the F-850 for super heavy duty hauling. Chevy has several of them as well. The safety ratings for Ford are slightly better though when several of the same style of pickups were compared to each other.
Mini vans are very popular these days as they look sporty and they offer plenty of room. The Ford Windstar and the Chevy Venture both offer plenty of room. Yet the Ford Windstar is more stylish and offers more features.
Ford also has the Ford Escape, which Chevy does not really have a good answer to. The Escape has good mpg, at about 24, but it still has the power to tow 3,500 pounds with the towing package. It's a great vehicle for anyone who does need the extra room and towing power larger SUVs offer, because the Escape is great on gas, easy and fun to drive, and affordable.
About The Author
Gabriel Adams
Learn all you need to know about Ford vehicles at http://www.fordfaqs.com/
Are You Giving Gas Back To The Gas Station?
Are You Giving Gas Back To The Gas Station?
by: John Beck
You May Be Paying For Gas, And Leaving It Behind.
That's right; you could be losing a fortune by trying to get that extra bit in because it is pennies cheaper at this gas station.
If you try to overfill your gas tank by squeezing that extra bit of gas in after the pump has clicked off it could be going back into their tanks.
Let me explain.
The fuel pump at the gas station has a venting system which takes the fumes out of the air as you fill up you tank. If this did not happen you would get a face full of noxious fumes every time you fill up.
If you try to get more in after the pump has clicked off, it may suck some of the fuel into the venting system instead and back into their tank.
Also, when you put the gas in your tank it is coming from buried storage tanks and is colder than if it was stored above ground. What this means is that as the gas warms up to the temperature of the day it expands.
If you overfill you tank and then park your car up, the fuel may go into the cars fuel tank breather system and cause unknown damage or even leak from the breather onto the floor. Now along with the wasted fuel you also have a fire hazard. (Is you insurance up to date?)
For you pocket and you safety I recommend that you stop filling when the gas pump clicks.
If you are going away on holiday, or business, early in the morning and think it would be quicker to fill up the night before it may be wise to think again. There are many 24 hour gas stations.
As fuel is sold by volume it will be colder, early in the morning and as the day gets warmer it expands and you get less for your money.
It will only take minutes to fill up in the morning and gives you enough time to remember things you forgot to pack (where's the kids?) before travelling to far.
If you are driving for a long distance it would be a good idea to use your cruise control as often as possible. A smoother speed will be more economical.
What about all the clutter in your car. It all adds weight and means more gas used. If you need to carry a full toolkit around in your trunk then it is time to think about replacing your car. Clear out the stuff you don't need (Compact discs, half empty pop bottles, Kylie tapes, those old papers you were going to take to recycling). A tidy car makes you feel good too.
More...........
https://paydotcom.com/r/15410/johnbeck/1148255/
When you are driving does your steering wheel pull to one side or the other. The wheel alignment may need checking. If the alignment is out it will cause the tires to drag on the road and you will use more gas.
Also the tires will wear out extremely fast, usually on one side. The handling of the vehicle will also be affected.
So for safety and economy get your alignment checked regularly.
For more tips I recommend you see this e-book.
https://paydotcom.com/r/15410/johnbeck/1148255/
About The Author
John Beck is retired early from working as an auto mechanic due to back problems and has since been working with people with learning difficulties.
https://paydotcom.com/r/15410/johnbeck/1148255/
If you would like to offer your tips on saving money or need some advice please email me advanced.driving@hotmail.com
by: John Beck
You May Be Paying For Gas, And Leaving It Behind.
That's right; you could be losing a fortune by trying to get that extra bit in because it is pennies cheaper at this gas station.
If you try to overfill your gas tank by squeezing that extra bit of gas in after the pump has clicked off it could be going back into their tanks.
Let me explain.
The fuel pump at the gas station has a venting system which takes the fumes out of the air as you fill up you tank. If this did not happen you would get a face full of noxious fumes every time you fill up.
If you try to get more in after the pump has clicked off, it may suck some of the fuel into the venting system instead and back into their tank.
Also, when you put the gas in your tank it is coming from buried storage tanks and is colder than if it was stored above ground. What this means is that as the gas warms up to the temperature of the day it expands.
If you overfill you tank and then park your car up, the fuel may go into the cars fuel tank breather system and cause unknown damage or even leak from the breather onto the floor. Now along with the wasted fuel you also have a fire hazard. (Is you insurance up to date?)
For you pocket and you safety I recommend that you stop filling when the gas pump clicks.
If you are going away on holiday, or business, early in the morning and think it would be quicker to fill up the night before it may be wise to think again. There are many 24 hour gas stations.
As fuel is sold by volume it will be colder, early in the morning and as the day gets warmer it expands and you get less for your money.
It will only take minutes to fill up in the morning and gives you enough time to remember things you forgot to pack (where's the kids?) before travelling to far.
If you are driving for a long distance it would be a good idea to use your cruise control as often as possible. A smoother speed will be more economical.
What about all the clutter in your car. It all adds weight and means more gas used. If you need to carry a full toolkit around in your trunk then it is time to think about replacing your car. Clear out the stuff you don't need (Compact discs, half empty pop bottles, Kylie tapes, those old papers you were going to take to recycling). A tidy car makes you feel good too.
More...........
https://paydotcom.com/r/15410/johnbeck/1148255/
When you are driving does your steering wheel pull to one side or the other. The wheel alignment may need checking. If the alignment is out it will cause the tires to drag on the road and you will use more gas.
Also the tires will wear out extremely fast, usually on one side. The handling of the vehicle will also be affected.
So for safety and economy get your alignment checked regularly.
For more tips I recommend you see this e-book.
https://paydotcom.com/r/15410/johnbeck/1148255/
About The Author
John Beck is retired early from working as an auto mechanic due to back problems and has since been working with people with learning difficulties.
https://paydotcom.com/r/15410/johnbeck/1148255/
If you would like to offer your tips on saving money or need some advice please email me advanced.driving@hotmail.com
An Introduction To Custom Wheels
An Introduction To Custom Wheels
by: Susan Fielding
Today, people are looking for quality auto parts that are capable of enhancing their fuel efficiency or vehicle performance. Custom wheels are wheel rims and tires that can be utilized to style different kinds of vehicles. There are many various types of custom wheels for everyday cars, as well as motorcycles and trucks. Custom rims could be a stylish addition to a vehicle's appearance, irrespective of whether the rims are spinning, have an alloy, chrome or painted appearance.
While replica rims are those that have been modeled based on original factory rims, classic car rims are used by car enthusiasts to give older, antique cars their original look.
Semi truck rims are usually made of aluminum or steel and made extra strong to be able to withstand the weight of truck loads and the wear and tear of long hauls.
Steel wheels are heated to over 2000 degrees to mold the carbon billets that are hit by forging hammers. They are able to sustain the stress of long hauls better than other types of truck rims.
Today, the types of rims available are light alloy and pressed steel custom wheels which dispel heat from driving, and increase economical gas mileage.
Custom wheels are available in a wide variety of styles and shapes, from chrome, alloy, aluminum, spinning, titanium to wire wheels. You can also get wheel finishes for aftermarket racing rims which range from chrome, polished, aluminum, powder coated, brushed and even gold plated.
When looking for custom wheels, you need to know the size of your wheels which can range from 12 to 28 inches.
Chrome wheels are a great addition to any type of vehicle. They will actually have people's heads turning, and that will surely add to making your ride even better.
When it comes to buying auto parts, one should not compromise on quality because safety and keeping your car running smoothly is top priority. The engine is the most important part of the car, and with that come the auto parts.
However, it is also necessary to do your research, and shop around at different stores or even consider online shopping to see what is available at the best possible price. There is a variety of brands available of any auto part that you would need. You just need to know what you are looking for, and go find it.
About The Author
For further detailed information about custom wheels visit http://www.custom-wheels-resource.info or for info on auto parts visit http://www.performance-car-guide.info/sitemap.htm
by: Susan Fielding
Today, people are looking for quality auto parts that are capable of enhancing their fuel efficiency or vehicle performance. Custom wheels are wheel rims and tires that can be utilized to style different kinds of vehicles. There are many various types of custom wheels for everyday cars, as well as motorcycles and trucks. Custom rims could be a stylish addition to a vehicle's appearance, irrespective of whether the rims are spinning, have an alloy, chrome or painted appearance.
While replica rims are those that have been modeled based on original factory rims, classic car rims are used by car enthusiasts to give older, antique cars their original look.
Semi truck rims are usually made of aluminum or steel and made extra strong to be able to withstand the weight of truck loads and the wear and tear of long hauls.
Steel wheels are heated to over 2000 degrees to mold the carbon billets that are hit by forging hammers. They are able to sustain the stress of long hauls better than other types of truck rims.
Today, the types of rims available are light alloy and pressed steel custom wheels which dispel heat from driving, and increase economical gas mileage.
Custom wheels are available in a wide variety of styles and shapes, from chrome, alloy, aluminum, spinning, titanium to wire wheels. You can also get wheel finishes for aftermarket racing rims which range from chrome, polished, aluminum, powder coated, brushed and even gold plated.
When looking for custom wheels, you need to know the size of your wheels which can range from 12 to 28 inches.
Chrome wheels are a great addition to any type of vehicle. They will actually have people's heads turning, and that will surely add to making your ride even better.
When it comes to buying auto parts, one should not compromise on quality because safety and keeping your car running smoothly is top priority. The engine is the most important part of the car, and with that come the auto parts.
However, it is also necessary to do your research, and shop around at different stores or even consider online shopping to see what is available at the best possible price. There is a variety of brands available of any auto part that you would need. You just need to know what you are looking for, and go find it.
About The Author
For further detailed information about custom wheels visit http://www.custom-wheels-resource.info or for info on auto parts visit http://www.performance-car-guide.info/sitemap.htm
Should I Buy A Second Hand Car At Auction?
Should I Buy A Second Hand Car At Auction?
by: Louis Rix
While it is possible to get a great deal and a bargain car at an auction, buying a used car this way isn’t always the ideal way to buy a car, there are better ways.
If it is your first time of buying a used car or you know very little about cars, then buying from an auction isn’t advisable. Perhaps the biggest problem with purchasing a car from an auction is the fact that that you have very little cover to fall back on if there should be any problem with the car. This is usually due to the auction house issuing a disclaimer, which many do, which states something such as “sold as seen”.
While many goods are covered by the Sale of Goods Act, some of the cleverer auction houses can get around this by altering the conditions of the sale by taking away the buyers rights under the Act.
If you do wish to purchase a car from an auction then it is advisable to visit an auction house several times before actually deciding to bid on a car. This way you can get used to the terminology used and the way auction houses work. It is also advisable to take someone with you who knows something about cars when you do decide to buy.
Most auction houses will hold preview days where you look at the car up for auction prior to bidding. This will give you a good chance to have a look at the vehicle.
You would be wise to consider having a vehicle data check done, which is a service that checks a vehicle’s history. It will show up really valuable things such as whether the car has been stolen, or the mileage tampered with etc.
Finally, it is essential that you know your spending limit. Don’t ever be tempted to go over that limit no matter how good a deal something may seem.
About The Author
Louis Rix is Director of http://Netcars.co.uk (http://www.netcars.co.uk) one of the UK's leading motoring websites. Established in 2000, its mission is to become the UK's number one site for used car searches and motoring information. Netcars also provide car finance, loans and insurance.
by: Louis Rix
While it is possible to get a great deal and a bargain car at an auction, buying a used car this way isn’t always the ideal way to buy a car, there are better ways.
If it is your first time of buying a used car or you know very little about cars, then buying from an auction isn’t advisable. Perhaps the biggest problem with purchasing a car from an auction is the fact that that you have very little cover to fall back on if there should be any problem with the car. This is usually due to the auction house issuing a disclaimer, which many do, which states something such as “sold as seen”.
While many goods are covered by the Sale of Goods Act, some of the cleverer auction houses can get around this by altering the conditions of the sale by taking away the buyers rights under the Act.
If you do wish to purchase a car from an auction then it is advisable to visit an auction house several times before actually deciding to bid on a car. This way you can get used to the terminology used and the way auction houses work. It is also advisable to take someone with you who knows something about cars when you do decide to buy.
Most auction houses will hold preview days where you look at the car up for auction prior to bidding. This will give you a good chance to have a look at the vehicle.
You would be wise to consider having a vehicle data check done, which is a service that checks a vehicle’s history. It will show up really valuable things such as whether the car has been stolen, or the mileage tampered with etc.
Finally, it is essential that you know your spending limit. Don’t ever be tempted to go over that limit no matter how good a deal something may seem.
About The Author
Louis Rix is Director of http://Netcars.co.uk (http://www.netcars.co.uk) one of the UK's leading motoring websites. Established in 2000, its mission is to become the UK's number one site for used car searches and motoring information. Netcars also provide car finance, loans and insurance.
Saving Money On Car Insurance With A Teenage Driver
Saving Money On Car Insurance With A Teenage Driver
by: Barry Brenner
Are you paying a fortune to insure your teenage driver? You really don't have to.
Some car insurance companies will charge you for your teenage driver when they turn sixteen. Some won't. Call your carrier ahead of time to find out what their policy is.
The most costly coverage on your auto insurance policy is the collision coverage. Collision coverage covers damage to your vehicle when it is involved in an at-fault accident. I.e. you hit someone or something. New drivers, no matter what age, are rated higher and cost more due to their lack of driving experience.
To save on the cost of the collision coverage on a new driver, consider purchasing a used vehicle that cost between one thousand five hundred and three thousand five hundred dollars. Make sure that it is mechanically sound for your driving needs. If you want to cover this vehicle for theft and vandalism, you can purchase comprehensive coverage. Instead of purchasing collision coverage on this vehicle, purchase uninsured motorist property damage coverage.
Uninsured motorist property damage coverage protects your vehicle for up to a limited amount if an uninsured motorist hits it and you can identify the driver and the vehicle. That way if anyone hits you, even if they have no insurance, your vehicle will be repaired or you will receive payment from your insurance company for the fair market value of the vehicle. Some insurance companies include a deductible with this coverage. Your savings could be anywhere from five hundred to two thousand dollars per year for your first three years of driving. How much does that add up to after three years?
When my daughter turned sixteen this year, I was faced with this dilemma. I own a 2002 Honda Accord and a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer. My auto insurance carrier wanted to increase my premium by two thousand dollars every six months to add her onto the policy.
I bought her a 1970 Plymouth, in good mechanical condition, and found a different top insurance company that charged me $642.00 every six months for the Plymouth with her on the policy. This policy came with permissive driving as a standard feature. This means that any other car she drove, including my other cars, were covered by this policy.
After I purchased the policy on the Plymouth, I was then able to add her onto my current policy for my Honda and Mitsubishi as a not rated driver without any additional cost. If she causes an accident while driving my Honda or Mitsubishi, the policy on the Plymouth would come first with its' coverage's. Then my current policy would come second, if necessary.
My current carrier wanted $1,200.00 every six months if I added the 1970 Plymouth and my daughter onto the policy. So I ended up saving over $1,100.00 a year on my car insurance.
About The Author
Barry Brenner is a licensed auto insurance agent with extensive experience selling car insurance. You can visit his popular website at: http://www.cheapcarinsurancequotetips.com
by: Barry Brenner
Are you paying a fortune to insure your teenage driver? You really don't have to.
Some car insurance companies will charge you for your teenage driver when they turn sixteen. Some won't. Call your carrier ahead of time to find out what their policy is.
The most costly coverage on your auto insurance policy is the collision coverage. Collision coverage covers damage to your vehicle when it is involved in an at-fault accident. I.e. you hit someone or something. New drivers, no matter what age, are rated higher and cost more due to their lack of driving experience.
To save on the cost of the collision coverage on a new driver, consider purchasing a used vehicle that cost between one thousand five hundred and three thousand five hundred dollars. Make sure that it is mechanically sound for your driving needs. If you want to cover this vehicle for theft and vandalism, you can purchase comprehensive coverage. Instead of purchasing collision coverage on this vehicle, purchase uninsured motorist property damage coverage.
Uninsured motorist property damage coverage protects your vehicle for up to a limited amount if an uninsured motorist hits it and you can identify the driver and the vehicle. That way if anyone hits you, even if they have no insurance, your vehicle will be repaired or you will receive payment from your insurance company for the fair market value of the vehicle. Some insurance companies include a deductible with this coverage. Your savings could be anywhere from five hundred to two thousand dollars per year for your first three years of driving. How much does that add up to after three years?
When my daughter turned sixteen this year, I was faced with this dilemma. I own a 2002 Honda Accord and a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer. My auto insurance carrier wanted to increase my premium by two thousand dollars every six months to add her onto the policy.
I bought her a 1970 Plymouth, in good mechanical condition, and found a different top insurance company that charged me $642.00 every six months for the Plymouth with her on the policy. This policy came with permissive driving as a standard feature. This means that any other car she drove, including my other cars, were covered by this policy.
After I purchased the policy on the Plymouth, I was then able to add her onto my current policy for my Honda and Mitsubishi as a not rated driver without any additional cost. If she causes an accident while driving my Honda or Mitsubishi, the policy on the Plymouth would come first with its' coverage's. Then my current policy would come second, if necessary.
My current carrier wanted $1,200.00 every six months if I added the 1970 Plymouth and my daughter onto the policy. So I ended up saving over $1,100.00 a year on my car insurance.
About The Author
Barry Brenner is a licensed auto insurance agent with extensive experience selling car insurance. You can visit his popular website at: http://www.cheapcarinsurancequotetips.com
Performance Car Tuning
Performance Car Tuning
by: Mitchel Sosa
Performance tuning is the tuning of an engine to increase the power output, torque, and responsiveness of the engine as well as the reliability and economy. To performance tune the engine, it must be strong enough to endure the extra power, sometimes far stronger than the standard engine. Also when Performance Tuning the car you must take into account the transmission, suspension and the brakes to make sure that these match the power output and torque of the engine as this will affect the overall performance of the car and make it more reliable and competitive. Most people want to increase the power output of an engine. The main way that is used to do this is to increase the rate and efficiency of combustion in an engine. This is achieved by putting more fuel/air mixture into the engine, using a fuel with higher energy content, burning it more rapidly, and getting rid of the waste products more rapidly - this increases volumetric efficiency. The specific ways this is done include:
• Increasing the engine displacement. This can be done by "boring" - increasing the diameter of the cylinders and pistons, or by "stroking" - using a crankshaft with a longer stroke (in combination with pistons of shorter compression height, to maintain the original compression ratio), or both.
• Using larger or multiple carburetors, to create more fuel/air mixture to burn, and to get it into the engine more quickly. In modern engines, fuel injection is more often used, and may be modified in a similar manner.
• Increasing the size of the valves in the engine, thus decreasing the restriction in the path of the fuel/air mixture entering, and the exhaust gases leaving the cylinder. Using multiple valves per cylinder results in the same thing - it is often more practical to have several small valves than have larger single valves.
• Using larger bored, smoother, less contorted intake and exhaust manifolds. This helps maintain the velocity of gases. Similarly, the ports in the cylinder can be enlarged and smoothed to match. This is termed "Cylinder head porting", usually with the aid of an air flow bench for testing and verifying the efficiency of the modifications.
• The larger bore may extend right through the complete exhaust system, using larger diameter piping and low back pressure mufflers, and through the intake system, with larger diameter air boxes and high-flow, high-efficiency air filters. Muffler modifications will change the sound of the car's engine, usually making it louder; for some tuners this is in itself a desirable property.
• Increasing the valve opening height (lift), by changing the profiles of the camshaft or the lift (lever), ratio of the valve rockers (OHV engines), or cam followers (OHC engines).
• Optimizing the valve timing to improve burning efficiency - usually this increases power at one range of operating RPM at the expense of reducing it at others. For many applications this compromise is acceptable. Again this is usually achieved by a differently profiled camshaft. See also Four-stroke cycle Valve Timing, variable valve timing.
• Raising the compression ratio, which makes more efficient use of the cylinder pressure developed and leading to more rapid burning of fuel, by using larger compression height pistons or thinner head gasket, or by milling "shaving" the cylinder head.
• Forced Induction; adding a turbocharger or supercharger. The fuel/air mass entering the cylinders is increased by compressing the air first, usually mechanically.
• Using a fuel with higher energy content or by adding an oxidizer such as nitrous oxide.
• Changing the tuning characteristics electronically, by changing the firmware of the engine management system (EMS). This chip tuning often works because modern engines are designed to give a great deal of raw power, which is then reduced by the engine management system to make the engine operate smoothly over a wider RPM range, with low emissions. By analogy with an operational amplifier, the EMS acts as a feedback loop around an engine with a great deal of open loop gain. Many modern engines are now of this type and amenable to this form of tuning. Naturally many other design parameters are sacrificed in the pursuit of power. The choice of modification depends greatly on the degree of performance enhancement desired, budget, and the characteristics of the engine to be modified. Intake, exhaust, and chip upgrades are usually amongst the first modifications made as they are the cheapest, make reasonably general improvements (whereas a different camshaft, for instance, requires trading off performance at low engine speeds for improvements at high engine speeds), can often improve fuel economy, generally don't affect engine reliability much (because no moving parts are modified), and are in any case essential to take full advantage of any further upgrades.
• Manufacturer Detuned Engines - Changing the tuning characteristics electronically, by changing the firmware of the engine management system (EMS). This chip tuning also works because many manufacturers produce one engine which is used in a range of models and the power and torque characteristics are determined solely by the engine management system software. This allows the manufacturers to sell cars in various markets with different tax and emissions regulations without the huge development cost of designing different engines. Cross platform engine sharing also allows for a single engine to be used by different brands, tuned to suit their particular market.
Hi My name is Mitchel and I have been in the Automotive industry since 1991 having built my own performance cars during this time but I will go into more detail about this in my future articles!
About The Author
Hi my name is Mitchel Sosa and I have been in the automotive industry for about ten year. I see myself as an expert in the field of performance cars having built some during my time in the field from an evo to 200SX. In my future articles I will be giving free advice on how to build performance cars and how they work.
by: Mitchel Sosa
Performance tuning is the tuning of an engine to increase the power output, torque, and responsiveness of the engine as well as the reliability and economy. To performance tune the engine, it must be strong enough to endure the extra power, sometimes far stronger than the standard engine. Also when Performance Tuning the car you must take into account the transmission, suspension and the brakes to make sure that these match the power output and torque of the engine as this will affect the overall performance of the car and make it more reliable and competitive. Most people want to increase the power output of an engine. The main way that is used to do this is to increase the rate and efficiency of combustion in an engine. This is achieved by putting more fuel/air mixture into the engine, using a fuel with higher energy content, burning it more rapidly, and getting rid of the waste products more rapidly - this increases volumetric efficiency. The specific ways this is done include:
• Increasing the engine displacement. This can be done by "boring" - increasing the diameter of the cylinders and pistons, or by "stroking" - using a crankshaft with a longer stroke (in combination with pistons of shorter compression height, to maintain the original compression ratio), or both.
• Using larger or multiple carburetors, to create more fuel/air mixture to burn, and to get it into the engine more quickly. In modern engines, fuel injection is more often used, and may be modified in a similar manner.
• Increasing the size of the valves in the engine, thus decreasing the restriction in the path of the fuel/air mixture entering, and the exhaust gases leaving the cylinder. Using multiple valves per cylinder results in the same thing - it is often more practical to have several small valves than have larger single valves.
• Using larger bored, smoother, less contorted intake and exhaust manifolds. This helps maintain the velocity of gases. Similarly, the ports in the cylinder can be enlarged and smoothed to match. This is termed "Cylinder head porting", usually with the aid of an air flow bench for testing and verifying the efficiency of the modifications.
• The larger bore may extend right through the complete exhaust system, using larger diameter piping and low back pressure mufflers, and through the intake system, with larger diameter air boxes and high-flow, high-efficiency air filters. Muffler modifications will change the sound of the car's engine, usually making it louder; for some tuners this is in itself a desirable property.
• Increasing the valve opening height (lift), by changing the profiles of the camshaft or the lift (lever), ratio of the valve rockers (OHV engines), or cam followers (OHC engines).
• Optimizing the valve timing to improve burning efficiency - usually this increases power at one range of operating RPM at the expense of reducing it at others. For many applications this compromise is acceptable. Again this is usually achieved by a differently profiled camshaft. See also Four-stroke cycle Valve Timing, variable valve timing.
• Raising the compression ratio, which makes more efficient use of the cylinder pressure developed and leading to more rapid burning of fuel, by using larger compression height pistons or thinner head gasket, or by milling "shaving" the cylinder head.
• Forced Induction; adding a turbocharger or supercharger. The fuel/air mass entering the cylinders is increased by compressing the air first, usually mechanically.
• Using a fuel with higher energy content or by adding an oxidizer such as nitrous oxide.
• Changing the tuning characteristics electronically, by changing the firmware of the engine management system (EMS). This chip tuning often works because modern engines are designed to give a great deal of raw power, which is then reduced by the engine management system to make the engine operate smoothly over a wider RPM range, with low emissions. By analogy with an operational amplifier, the EMS acts as a feedback loop around an engine with a great deal of open loop gain. Many modern engines are now of this type and amenable to this form of tuning. Naturally many other design parameters are sacrificed in the pursuit of power. The choice of modification depends greatly on the degree of performance enhancement desired, budget, and the characteristics of the engine to be modified. Intake, exhaust, and chip upgrades are usually amongst the first modifications made as they are the cheapest, make reasonably general improvements (whereas a different camshaft, for instance, requires trading off performance at low engine speeds for improvements at high engine speeds), can often improve fuel economy, generally don't affect engine reliability much (because no moving parts are modified), and are in any case essential to take full advantage of any further upgrades.
• Manufacturer Detuned Engines - Changing the tuning characteristics electronically, by changing the firmware of the engine management system (EMS). This chip tuning also works because many manufacturers produce one engine which is used in a range of models and the power and torque characteristics are determined solely by the engine management system software. This allows the manufacturers to sell cars in various markets with different tax and emissions regulations without the huge development cost of designing different engines. Cross platform engine sharing also allows for a single engine to be used by different brands, tuned to suit their particular market.
Hi My name is Mitchel and I have been in the Automotive industry since 1991 having built my own performance cars during this time but I will go into more detail about this in my future articles!
About The Author
Hi my name is Mitchel Sosa and I have been in the automotive industry for about ten year. I see myself as an expert in the field of performance cars having built some during my time in the field from an evo to 200SX. In my future articles I will be giving free advice on how to build performance cars and how they work.
Regular Low Octane Gas May Be Costing You More Than Buying Premium
Regular Low Octane Gas May Be Costing You More Than Buying Premium
by: Doug Kelly
What Is Octane and How Does It Affect Your Engine’s Gas Mileage and Horsepower?
Trying to save money by using a lower octane gas is almost a guarantee that you will actually spend more money on gas (depending on the cost difference of the choices between 87 octane and 93 octane). Why? Because it’s a certainty that you will get terrible gas mileage. Isn’t that ironic? And horsepower? Forget it. Your horsepower won’t even be close to what you should have. But the worst part is that it will eventually harm your engine. Badly.
Surprised? All the things that people have told you about “hearing” or “reading” that there is no reason to buy premium gas because the regular gas is just as good are wrong! Then there’s the belief that the higher octane premium gas is just another rip-off by the oil companies. Wrong again. But that’s a measure of how desperate we’ve become trying to save money on gas. We are becoming penny-wise and pound-foolish.
First let’s look at what octane means. It’s not about horsepower or heat energy. All an octane measure that’s posted on service station gas pumps means is that the octane number signifies the average of two methods of testing a fuel’s resistance to detonation. They typically range from 87 octane for regular unleaded gas to 93 octane for premium fuel. If you read most of these signs you will see a notation that the octane has been calculated using the formula R+M/2. We could go into another page to explain that.
Without going into all the scientific stuff, this means that a premium fuel has a much higher resistance to detonation than does a regular fuel of 87 octane. You read it right. Resistance to detonation. So what’s this about detonation? The resistance to detonation is the primary quality of a good gasoline. This is desirable so the detonation inside the cylinder head can be ignited evenly; the spark plug ignites the flame front in the cylinder head as a mixture of gas and oxygen. The flame moves in a deliberate manner across the top of the piston and cylinder. That’s how it’s supposed to work.
So the better the fuel’s resistance to spontaneous igniting the more controlled the burning of the gas and the subsequent expansion of the heated gases that pushes the piston down to turn the crankshaft. But when a fuel with a lower detonation is used where it shouldn’t be used (in an engine whose manufacturer says it shouldn’t be used) the whole process goes out the window.
Abnormal combustion is what it’s called. And that’s because the intense heat and pressure in the cylinder subjects the lower detonation fuel (the 87 octane fuel) to an environment that it wasn’t meant for. So pockets of the fuel can spontaneously self-ignite creating secondary flame flashes. When those meet in the out-of-control burning in the cylinder head, the engine gets a shock wave. This shock wave is the knocking sound we have all heard in an engine at some time or another. Sometimes it sounds like marbles rolling around in the engine. Other times it actually sounds like the piston rods are loose and rattling. Whatever it sounds like, it’s not good for your engine . . . really not good.
So now comes the part where technology almost outwits us again. In older cars – those that didn’t have computer controlled engine functions, we all knew that the knocking sound meant that either we were using el cheapo gas or the spark timing was wrong. That was easy enough to fix. Just buy better gas or have your mechanic re-set the timing. Some guys could do that themselves in their own garage or under a shade tree.
But now we have these ingenious high-tech engines that are monitored by an on-board computer and they are constantly making adjustments to correct or improve what the computer perceives as a problem. Here’s where we fool ourselves. Or rather where the engine fools us and we believe it. These little critters are equipped with knock sensors.
When they detect the typical bad detonation from using low octane fuel, the little devils automatically retard the spark timing or take other precautions to protect the engine. So, in reality, the sensors are de-tuning the engine to accept the fuel’s octane. The designers put this in to protect the engine from damage, but only for the short run. But with the spark timing compromised, the engine’s performance is just shot. This is why it looses horsepower so badly, as I pointed out earlier.
In addition to robbing the engine of power, the electronic computerized de-tuning has put the engine into a mode that, by the nature of the low uncontrolled detonation, wastes the fuel’s energy to power the vehicle. So, if you think you’ve outsmarted the oil company, think again. You’re among their best customers because your vehicle’s miles per gallon are in the toilet. Said another way, you use more of their product than you need to.
The techno-wizardry of this is amazing, but the down-side is that the electronic computerized controls – the techno-wizardry -- can mask the inferior detonation so effectively that you may never be aware that it’s happening.
So you are merrily driving along thinking how clever you were to not fall for that premium gas trick at the service station. Meanwhile your car is running sluggishly and you are using a great deal more gas than you should be using. But you sure saved a lot of money on that last fill-up, didn’t you?
About The Author
Doug Kelly owns and operates http://www.gas-miser.com which specializes in the full product line of Microlon engine and metal treatments for reducing the friction of all moving parts to increase horsepower and gas mileage and enable engines and transmissions to perform better and last longer. 3 year warranty. Less cost than factory direct and free shipping.
by: Doug Kelly
What Is Octane and How Does It Affect Your Engine’s Gas Mileage and Horsepower?
Trying to save money by using a lower octane gas is almost a guarantee that you will actually spend more money on gas (depending on the cost difference of the choices between 87 octane and 93 octane). Why? Because it’s a certainty that you will get terrible gas mileage. Isn’t that ironic? And horsepower? Forget it. Your horsepower won’t even be close to what you should have. But the worst part is that it will eventually harm your engine. Badly.
Surprised? All the things that people have told you about “hearing” or “reading” that there is no reason to buy premium gas because the regular gas is just as good are wrong! Then there’s the belief that the higher octane premium gas is just another rip-off by the oil companies. Wrong again. But that’s a measure of how desperate we’ve become trying to save money on gas. We are becoming penny-wise and pound-foolish.
First let’s look at what octane means. It’s not about horsepower or heat energy. All an octane measure that’s posted on service station gas pumps means is that the octane number signifies the average of two methods of testing a fuel’s resistance to detonation. They typically range from 87 octane for regular unleaded gas to 93 octane for premium fuel. If you read most of these signs you will see a notation that the octane has been calculated using the formula R+M/2. We could go into another page to explain that.
Without going into all the scientific stuff, this means that a premium fuel has a much higher resistance to detonation than does a regular fuel of 87 octane. You read it right. Resistance to detonation. So what’s this about detonation? The resistance to detonation is the primary quality of a good gasoline. This is desirable so the detonation inside the cylinder head can be ignited evenly; the spark plug ignites the flame front in the cylinder head as a mixture of gas and oxygen. The flame moves in a deliberate manner across the top of the piston and cylinder. That’s how it’s supposed to work.
So the better the fuel’s resistance to spontaneous igniting the more controlled the burning of the gas and the subsequent expansion of the heated gases that pushes the piston down to turn the crankshaft. But when a fuel with a lower detonation is used where it shouldn’t be used (in an engine whose manufacturer says it shouldn’t be used) the whole process goes out the window.
Abnormal combustion is what it’s called. And that’s because the intense heat and pressure in the cylinder subjects the lower detonation fuel (the 87 octane fuel) to an environment that it wasn’t meant for. So pockets of the fuel can spontaneously self-ignite creating secondary flame flashes. When those meet in the out-of-control burning in the cylinder head, the engine gets a shock wave. This shock wave is the knocking sound we have all heard in an engine at some time or another. Sometimes it sounds like marbles rolling around in the engine. Other times it actually sounds like the piston rods are loose and rattling. Whatever it sounds like, it’s not good for your engine . . . really not good.
So now comes the part where technology almost outwits us again. In older cars – those that didn’t have computer controlled engine functions, we all knew that the knocking sound meant that either we were using el cheapo gas or the spark timing was wrong. That was easy enough to fix. Just buy better gas or have your mechanic re-set the timing. Some guys could do that themselves in their own garage or under a shade tree.
But now we have these ingenious high-tech engines that are monitored by an on-board computer and they are constantly making adjustments to correct or improve what the computer perceives as a problem. Here’s where we fool ourselves. Or rather where the engine fools us and we believe it. These little critters are equipped with knock sensors.
When they detect the typical bad detonation from using low octane fuel, the little devils automatically retard the spark timing or take other precautions to protect the engine. So, in reality, the sensors are de-tuning the engine to accept the fuel’s octane. The designers put this in to protect the engine from damage, but only for the short run. But with the spark timing compromised, the engine’s performance is just shot. This is why it looses horsepower so badly, as I pointed out earlier.
In addition to robbing the engine of power, the electronic computerized de-tuning has put the engine into a mode that, by the nature of the low uncontrolled detonation, wastes the fuel’s energy to power the vehicle. So, if you think you’ve outsmarted the oil company, think again. You’re among their best customers because your vehicle’s miles per gallon are in the toilet. Said another way, you use more of their product than you need to.
The techno-wizardry of this is amazing, but the down-side is that the electronic computerized controls – the techno-wizardry -- can mask the inferior detonation so effectively that you may never be aware that it’s happening.
So you are merrily driving along thinking how clever you were to not fall for that premium gas trick at the service station. Meanwhile your car is running sluggishly and you are using a great deal more gas than you should be using. But you sure saved a lot of money on that last fill-up, didn’t you?
About The Author
Doug Kelly owns and operates http://www.gas-miser.com which specializes in the full product line of Microlon engine and metal treatments for reducing the friction of all moving parts to increase horsepower and gas mileage and enable engines and transmissions to perform better and last longer. 3 year warranty. Less cost than factory direct and free shipping.
How to Change Your Car’s Oil
How to Change Your Car’s Oil
by: Slav Vaskevich
There are many places you can go to get your oil changed. Most of the places are not too expensive, but they are often busy, and it is hard to get to the shop when you are busy working. If you are interested in changing your car’s oil yourself, there are things you should know. First of all, most cars are pretty much the same. If you have changed one car’s oil you can change all cars. While the oil pan may be located in a different area on the cars they are in the same general spot. Below are a few tips on how to change the oil in your car:
- You will need at least six quarts of oil. Preferably you will want to use the same type of oil you had in the engine before.
- You will also need to purchase a new oil filter. You will need to make sure you are buying the correct oil filter for the model of your car.
- During an oil change most people also change the air filter on their cars. The air filter tends to become dirty in about the same time as the oil needs changing especially on older model vehicles. Therefore you may wish to purchase an air filter as well.
- If you have not done any prior work on the vehicle at home, you will need to purchase a car jack or tire racks. These racks allow you to drive up on them to elevate the front end of the car where you will be working. If you are using a jack or the racks you will need to place blocks behind the other two tires to keep the car from rolling.
- You will also want to make sure that the e- brake is on and that the car is in park. You need to elevate the car so that the oil will run out of the oil pan completely as well as make it easier for you to reach the oil pan.
- You will need something to catch the oil in. Most auto parts shops including those online will have oil pans that you can drain the oil into. These pans have a special design to make disposing of the oil into an oil drum easy.
- You will also need an oil filter wrench. This wrench must be the correct wrench for the size of filter you have. There are many sizes depending on the type of car you have. There are even oil filter wrenches for semi trucks. Another tool you will need is the wrench for the oil pan nut. This nut has to be removed to let the oil leak out. This is usually a metric or standard wrench depending on who manufactured your car. The best tool for this job is a socket wrench.
- Once you have all of the tools and other items you will need to locate the oil pan. It is best to look in your car manual for this information. Keep plenty of towels on hand as well.
- First you will want to loosen the nut on the oil pan, making sure that you are prepared for the first gush of oil by having the waste pan underneath the oil pan.
- Next you will want to locate the oil fill cap and remove it. Some manuals may tell you to do this first. I have found that this creates more of a gush if you wait to remove the hexagonal nut after, so the potential for a spill is higher.
- Once you have gotten the oil flowing out of the vehicle you can then set a bucket just under the oil filter. There will be a little oil drainage from the filter so having the bucket under there will help keep you from causing a spill. Once you have removed the old filter you can then screw on the new filter following the instructions on the box.
Now that you have removed all of the oil from your vehicle you will need to make sure that you replace the hexagonal nut on the oil pan and make sure that the oil filter is screwed on tight. Then you can begin replacing the oil. It is best to fill the engine with at least four bottles of oil and then let it settle. Check the engine oil level and then keep adding a quart until it is full. As stated above, most cars take six quarts.
Source: http://www.abccarparts.com/
About The Author
Slav Vaskevich is an active contributing member of http://www.AbcCarParts.com - an online used car parts inventory and advertising network.
by: Slav Vaskevich
There are many places you can go to get your oil changed. Most of the places are not too expensive, but they are often busy, and it is hard to get to the shop when you are busy working. If you are interested in changing your car’s oil yourself, there are things you should know. First of all, most cars are pretty much the same. If you have changed one car’s oil you can change all cars. While the oil pan may be located in a different area on the cars they are in the same general spot. Below are a few tips on how to change the oil in your car:
- You will need at least six quarts of oil. Preferably you will want to use the same type of oil you had in the engine before.
- You will also need to purchase a new oil filter. You will need to make sure you are buying the correct oil filter for the model of your car.
- During an oil change most people also change the air filter on their cars. The air filter tends to become dirty in about the same time as the oil needs changing especially on older model vehicles. Therefore you may wish to purchase an air filter as well.
- If you have not done any prior work on the vehicle at home, you will need to purchase a car jack or tire racks. These racks allow you to drive up on them to elevate the front end of the car where you will be working. If you are using a jack or the racks you will need to place blocks behind the other two tires to keep the car from rolling.
- You will also want to make sure that the e- brake is on and that the car is in park. You need to elevate the car so that the oil will run out of the oil pan completely as well as make it easier for you to reach the oil pan.
- You will need something to catch the oil in. Most auto parts shops including those online will have oil pans that you can drain the oil into. These pans have a special design to make disposing of the oil into an oil drum easy.
- You will also need an oil filter wrench. This wrench must be the correct wrench for the size of filter you have. There are many sizes depending on the type of car you have. There are even oil filter wrenches for semi trucks. Another tool you will need is the wrench for the oil pan nut. This nut has to be removed to let the oil leak out. This is usually a metric or standard wrench depending on who manufactured your car. The best tool for this job is a socket wrench.
- Once you have all of the tools and other items you will need to locate the oil pan. It is best to look in your car manual for this information. Keep plenty of towels on hand as well.
- First you will want to loosen the nut on the oil pan, making sure that you are prepared for the first gush of oil by having the waste pan underneath the oil pan.
- Next you will want to locate the oil fill cap and remove it. Some manuals may tell you to do this first. I have found that this creates more of a gush if you wait to remove the hexagonal nut after, so the potential for a spill is higher.
- Once you have gotten the oil flowing out of the vehicle you can then set a bucket just under the oil filter. There will be a little oil drainage from the filter so having the bucket under there will help keep you from causing a spill. Once you have removed the old filter you can then screw on the new filter following the instructions on the box.
Now that you have removed all of the oil from your vehicle you will need to make sure that you replace the hexagonal nut on the oil pan and make sure that the oil filter is screwed on tight. Then you can begin replacing the oil. It is best to fill the engine with at least four bottles of oil and then let it settle. Check the engine oil level and then keep adding a quart until it is full. As stated above, most cars take six quarts.
Source: http://www.abccarparts.com/
About The Author
Slav Vaskevich is an active contributing member of http://www.AbcCarParts.com - an online used car parts inventory and advertising network.
Chicago Classic Car Culture
Chicago Classic Car Culture
by: Todd Fredricks
Does Chicago have an active car culture? The answer to that question is a resounding "yes!" Anyone who has driven past McCormick place during the annual auto show can vouch for that. Just look around Chicago and you can see the love affair in action. No place is this more evident than in the local cruise nights that pop up in many suburban locations during the summer months. Whether you go there to show a car, see a classic hot rod, or just get out of the house, the Chicago classic cruise nights are some of the best.
During the summer months from dinnertime to dusk on practically every day of the week, you can wander streets from the far northern suburbs to the south side and check out vehicles from the past. Cars of all sizes, ages, and colors will be rolling down "Main Street" in the downtown districts of suburban Chicago.
"These shows are all about community and family" says the creator of a web site that promotes these shows. "People get out with their wife and kids, have an ice cream cone, and swap stories on ideas for next weekend’s garage tinkering project."
People find out about these local shows from their newspaper, car clubs, and online resources like ChicagoAreaCruiseNight.com. Members of such web sites enjoy the online format because it allows them to share photos, chat in the forums, and have a place to share stories when they cannot attend a cruise night. The web format is also popular in that dreaded Chicago winter season when all classic cars stay bundled up in their garages. ChicagoAreaCruiseNight.com has cruise night listings by each day of the week, as well as by suburban location.
Virtually all classic car shows welcome visitors free of charge. New visitors should keep a couple points in mind as they walk the shows as a little etiquette goes a long way.
- Don't touch the cars
- Don't reach inside a car (or get inside a car!)
- Keep strollers, buggies, and wagons a safe distance from the cars
- Keep a close eye on small children - Cars coming and going all the time can be dangerous.
- If you lean over too admire the engine or get a closer look, watch out for your belt buckle or the zipper on your jacket or other metal items on your clothing.
- Don't stand on running boards
- If you don’t have something nice to say, don’t say anything at all
While hot rod culture has diminished over time, it has never completely gone away. Groups of grease monkeys and car lovers have always gravitated to the classic American car and everything it stands for.
Today, whether it's because of an excuse to get the family out of the house, a reason to polish up the old jalopy, or just a love of classic cars, cruise nights are flourishing around Chicago.
About The Author
Todd Fredricks
For more information or complete Chicago Cruise Night information visit the http://www.chicagoareacruisenight.com/.
by: Todd Fredricks
Does Chicago have an active car culture? The answer to that question is a resounding "yes!" Anyone who has driven past McCormick place during the annual auto show can vouch for that. Just look around Chicago and you can see the love affair in action. No place is this more evident than in the local cruise nights that pop up in many suburban locations during the summer months. Whether you go there to show a car, see a classic hot rod, or just get out of the house, the Chicago classic cruise nights are some of the best.
During the summer months from dinnertime to dusk on practically every day of the week, you can wander streets from the far northern suburbs to the south side and check out vehicles from the past. Cars of all sizes, ages, and colors will be rolling down "Main Street" in the downtown districts of suburban Chicago.
"These shows are all about community and family" says the creator of a web site that promotes these shows. "People get out with their wife and kids, have an ice cream cone, and swap stories on ideas for next weekend’s garage tinkering project."
People find out about these local shows from their newspaper, car clubs, and online resources like ChicagoAreaCruiseNight.com. Members of such web sites enjoy the online format because it allows them to share photos, chat in the forums, and have a place to share stories when they cannot attend a cruise night. The web format is also popular in that dreaded Chicago winter season when all classic cars stay bundled up in their garages. ChicagoAreaCruiseNight.com has cruise night listings by each day of the week, as well as by suburban location.
Virtually all classic car shows welcome visitors free of charge. New visitors should keep a couple points in mind as they walk the shows as a little etiquette goes a long way.
- Don't touch the cars
- Don't reach inside a car (or get inside a car!)
- Keep strollers, buggies, and wagons a safe distance from the cars
- Keep a close eye on small children - Cars coming and going all the time can be dangerous.
- If you lean over too admire the engine or get a closer look, watch out for your belt buckle or the zipper on your jacket or other metal items on your clothing.
- Don't stand on running boards
- If you don’t have something nice to say, don’t say anything at all
While hot rod culture has diminished over time, it has never completely gone away. Groups of grease monkeys and car lovers have always gravitated to the classic American car and everything it stands for.
Today, whether it's because of an excuse to get the family out of the house, a reason to polish up the old jalopy, or just a love of classic cars, cruise nights are flourishing around Chicago.
About The Author
Todd Fredricks
For more information or complete Chicago Cruise Night information visit the http://www.chicagoareacruisenight.com/.
Car Jacks, How To Use Them Safely
Car Jacks, How To Use Them Safely
by: Clayton Chapple
Safe Use of Your Car Jack
Every new passenger vehicle sold today comes with a jack for use when lifting is required, usually to change a tyre or mechanical repairs. We all know how a jack works but do we all know how to use a jack safely?
The Facts
Between 1989 & 1992, twenty seven Australians lost their lives from vehicles falling off jacks and ramps that were suppose to be supporting them. Interestingly, while 20 of the victims were home users, 7 were killed while in a place of work, where safe procedures should be known & practiced.
Why did this happen? In the cases where the cause was identifiable, it was discovered the users had:
1 Failed to apply the hand break on the vehicle.
2 Failed to leave the vehicle in gear.
3 Not used chocks on the other wheels.
4 Incorrectly used the jack.
5 Used an inappropriate jack for the job.
6 Attempted to jack the vehicle on sloping or uneven ground.
By ignoring these simple procedures the unfortunate victims paid with their lives.
Safe Use
Always read the instructions that come with your jack & follow them to the letter.
1 It’s a very bad idea to stand in the road while using your jack, however some times it is unavoidable. If you must do this be sure to light your workspace as much as possible so on coming traffic can see you. Flares & reflectors are best for this if available. Try to have someone standing beside you facing the traffic & directing it clear if needed.
2 Always work on a flat, solid surface. Most jacks do not function safely on uneven or soft surfaces. Air jacks like Selson are the exception to this rule. Its broad base & internal telescopic arm allow the jack to follow the lifting arc of the vehicle on all surfaces & gentle slopes.
3 Be sure no one remains in the vehicle. The smallest shake can unsettle the jack. Remove any heavy loads from inside the vehicle.
4 Apply the handbrake and leave your vehicle in gear.
5 Use chocks on the non-raised wheels.
6 Never place any part of your body under the vehicle.
7 Never raise the vehicle any higher than necessary.
8 Always keep an eye on the jack to see if it’s holding steady. If it looks to be slipping or moving in any way, get away from the vehicle.
Are all jacks equal?
Most cars come with a pentagram or scissor jack. These are adequate for lift about 1/3rd of the weight of the vehicle. As you are only lifting one corner, this is acceptable. In a garage or workshop situation bottle or hydraulic jacks are common. The later in particular can lift heavier weights than scissor jacks and are considered safer. A more recent addition to the collection is the Selson air jack. Selson air jacks are a unique design that uses compressed air to raise and lower motor vehicles quickly and easily. Their safety, reliability and speed make Selson air jacks ideal for underbody servicing, wheel alignment, tyre replacement services and body repair work.
About The Author
Clayton Chapple, administrator of Air Jacks Online. Suppling Selson air jacks, scissor jacks & torque multipliers.
http://www.airjacksonline.com
by: Clayton Chapple
Safe Use of Your Car Jack
Every new passenger vehicle sold today comes with a jack for use when lifting is required, usually to change a tyre or mechanical repairs. We all know how a jack works but do we all know how to use a jack safely?
The Facts
Between 1989 & 1992, twenty seven Australians lost their lives from vehicles falling off jacks and ramps that were suppose to be supporting them. Interestingly, while 20 of the victims were home users, 7 were killed while in a place of work, where safe procedures should be known & practiced.
Why did this happen? In the cases where the cause was identifiable, it was discovered the users had:
1 Failed to apply the hand break on the vehicle.
2 Failed to leave the vehicle in gear.
3 Not used chocks on the other wheels.
4 Incorrectly used the jack.
5 Used an inappropriate jack for the job.
6 Attempted to jack the vehicle on sloping or uneven ground.
By ignoring these simple procedures the unfortunate victims paid with their lives.
Safe Use
Always read the instructions that come with your jack & follow them to the letter.
1 It’s a very bad idea to stand in the road while using your jack, however some times it is unavoidable. If you must do this be sure to light your workspace as much as possible so on coming traffic can see you. Flares & reflectors are best for this if available. Try to have someone standing beside you facing the traffic & directing it clear if needed.
2 Always work on a flat, solid surface. Most jacks do not function safely on uneven or soft surfaces. Air jacks like Selson are the exception to this rule. Its broad base & internal telescopic arm allow the jack to follow the lifting arc of the vehicle on all surfaces & gentle slopes.
3 Be sure no one remains in the vehicle. The smallest shake can unsettle the jack. Remove any heavy loads from inside the vehicle.
4 Apply the handbrake and leave your vehicle in gear.
5 Use chocks on the non-raised wheels.
6 Never place any part of your body under the vehicle.
7 Never raise the vehicle any higher than necessary.
8 Always keep an eye on the jack to see if it’s holding steady. If it looks to be slipping or moving in any way, get away from the vehicle.
Are all jacks equal?
Most cars come with a pentagram or scissor jack. These are adequate for lift about 1/3rd of the weight of the vehicle. As you are only lifting one corner, this is acceptable. In a garage or workshop situation bottle or hydraulic jacks are common. The later in particular can lift heavier weights than scissor jacks and are considered safer. A more recent addition to the collection is the Selson air jack. Selson air jacks are a unique design that uses compressed air to raise and lower motor vehicles quickly and easily. Their safety, reliability and speed make Selson air jacks ideal for underbody servicing, wheel alignment, tyre replacement services and body repair work.
About The Author
Clayton Chapple, administrator of Air Jacks Online. Suppling Selson air jacks, scissor jacks & torque multipliers.
http://www.airjacksonline.com
New Car Lease - What You Need To Know
New Car Lease - What You Need To Know
by: Aaron Read
Should I buy or lease a car? Lease vs buy car? Who can resist the ads? Lease the car of your dreams for a mere $199.00 and very little down. It doesn't take much to see why leasing a car has become a popular option for those who either can't afford to buy a new car, or can't afford to upgrade to the model they really want.
On the surface, leasing a car may seem too good to be true - and oftentimes it is. Sure, leasing often gets you in a better car, but is it a better deal? For most people, the answer is no. Unless you need a short-term arrangement due to work or school demands, leasing often costs much more in the long run than buying.
Some questions you might consider if you can't keep up the payments, for example:
1. How to get out of a car lease.
2. Penalties for breaking a car lease.
3. Can you buy lease car.
4. Can you take over car lease.
5. Consider a car lease transfer.
What are some of the disadvantages of leasing? Check these out and see:
- If you continue to rollover car leases, payments never end, because you never "own" the vehicle.
- Limited Mileage. Leases offer a limited amount of miles per year that the car can be drive. Go over those limits, and pay extra when the lease ends
- The vehicle must be kept in tip-top shape. Scheduled maintenance must be done on time. You'll also pay for any scratches, dents, spots, stains, and general wearing on both the interior and exterior of the vehicle at the end of the least
- There's no backing out. Once a lease agreement is signed, you're in it until the end. If something happens, and you find yourself in need of getting out of a lease before it expires, plan on paying hefty terminations fees and penalties immediately
- Depreciation Hurts. All cars begin to lose value as soon as they are driven off the lot, but leased vehicles seem to be hit harder due to the fact that payments are so low, hindering any chance of having any equity in the vehicle.
Without the ability to trade it in at the end of the lease, that may not seem like a bad thing, unless you're in an accident. If the car or truck being leased happens to be totaled in an accident, the insurance company is only liable for the estimated value - not the total lease payoff - leaving you with a potential bill. Of course you can purchase separate leasing insurance - for a price.
- When it ends, you have no car. Most leases today range from 2-5 years. The average is 36 months. That means, in just three short years, you'll be forced to acquire another new vehicle. That may mean paying another down payment, and setting up yet another payment schedule. At least when you buy a car, you have some time to find a replacement.
- You're stuck with what they have. Customizing a vehicle is generally out of the questions when leasing. You are forced to take whatever color and options they have, which may not be necessarily what you want.
A new or used car lease can be a viable option for some consumers; the trick is to understand both its pros and cons before rushing to the showroom to make a deal.
About The Author
Aaron Read has been writing articles about the auto industry for years. If you would like more information, articles and resources on the automotive industry. Visit http://www.usedautomotivepart.net
by: Aaron Read
Should I buy or lease a car? Lease vs buy car? Who can resist the ads? Lease the car of your dreams for a mere $199.00 and very little down. It doesn't take much to see why leasing a car has become a popular option for those who either can't afford to buy a new car, or can't afford to upgrade to the model they really want.
On the surface, leasing a car may seem too good to be true - and oftentimes it is. Sure, leasing often gets you in a better car, but is it a better deal? For most people, the answer is no. Unless you need a short-term arrangement due to work or school demands, leasing often costs much more in the long run than buying.
Some questions you might consider if you can't keep up the payments, for example:
1. How to get out of a car lease.
2. Penalties for breaking a car lease.
3. Can you buy lease car.
4. Can you take over car lease.
5. Consider a car lease transfer.
What are some of the disadvantages of leasing? Check these out and see:
- If you continue to rollover car leases, payments never end, because you never "own" the vehicle.
- Limited Mileage. Leases offer a limited amount of miles per year that the car can be drive. Go over those limits, and pay extra when the lease ends
- The vehicle must be kept in tip-top shape. Scheduled maintenance must be done on time. You'll also pay for any scratches, dents, spots, stains, and general wearing on both the interior and exterior of the vehicle at the end of the least
- There's no backing out. Once a lease agreement is signed, you're in it until the end. If something happens, and you find yourself in need of getting out of a lease before it expires, plan on paying hefty terminations fees and penalties immediately
- Depreciation Hurts. All cars begin to lose value as soon as they are driven off the lot, but leased vehicles seem to be hit harder due to the fact that payments are so low, hindering any chance of having any equity in the vehicle.
Without the ability to trade it in at the end of the lease, that may not seem like a bad thing, unless you're in an accident. If the car or truck being leased happens to be totaled in an accident, the insurance company is only liable for the estimated value - not the total lease payoff - leaving you with a potential bill. Of course you can purchase separate leasing insurance - for a price.
- When it ends, you have no car. Most leases today range from 2-5 years. The average is 36 months. That means, in just three short years, you'll be forced to acquire another new vehicle. That may mean paying another down payment, and setting up yet another payment schedule. At least when you buy a car, you have some time to find a replacement.
- You're stuck with what they have. Customizing a vehicle is generally out of the questions when leasing. You are forced to take whatever color and options they have, which may not be necessarily what you want.
A new or used car lease can be a viable option for some consumers; the trick is to understand both its pros and cons before rushing to the showroom to make a deal.
About The Author
Aaron Read has been writing articles about the auto industry for years. If you would like more information, articles and resources on the automotive industry. Visit http://www.usedautomotivepart.net
Car Buying Tips: Five Things You Need To Know To Avoid Hidden Fees And Additional Costs
Car Buying Tips: Five Things You Need To Know To Avoid Hidden Fees And Additional Costs
by: Scott Conklin
Before purchasing your next car, you're going to want to check for hidden costs, add-on fees, and other charges. You could end up spending hundreds, even thousands, of dollars over the lifetime of your loan.
Once you've found the car you want, it's time to sit down with your sales rep to negotiate the terms of your contract. After a little back and forth on price, figuring out your interest rate, and calculating your monthly payment, you're ready to sign on the dotted line, right?
Not so fast.
When you read the fine print you may find that additional fees and charges have found their way into your contract – including add-ons you didn't necessarily ask for.
Most car buyers are so focused on getting the best interest rate and negotiating the most affordable monthly payment that they're unconcerned with the fine print of the contract. By the time they get to the step where they review and sign the paperwork, if the sales rep is throwing industry terms at them that they don't fully understand, they're becoming exhausted from the entire process and just want to get it over with.
Here are a few insider tips to make sure you don't regret signing those papers.
1.) Read the Fine Print
While this seems pretty obvious and self-explanatory, it's amazing how trusting the consumer can be. Honestly, the last time you bought a car, did you read and fully understand the contract before you signed it? Probably not. Most people don't.
Some unscrupulous car dealerships are betting on that. Because most people don't read the fine print, some sales reps can slide in additional, undisclosed charges or extras with huge mark-ups to their profit.
Also, make sure there are no blank spaces on your finance contract that can be filled in later – wherever there are blank spaces, write in "$0" or "N/A."
2.) Typical Extras
Most of us are familiar with learning about the standard features of an automobile and then figuring out which additional features we are willing to pay extra for, but here are some extras to look out for when reviewing your contract:
* Rust proofing
* Extended warranty
* Fabric protector
* Car alarm (including Lojack, a device police use to find your car if you report it stolen)
* Paint sealant
* Credit life insurance
* GAP
* Window etching
The value of such extras depends on individual customer needs and situations. If the sales rep attempts to tell you that some or all of these extras are standard for every vehicle on the lot, ask to order your car from the factory, or suggest the dealership trade with another dealer that hasn't pre-packaged their vehicles.
Extra products can add thousands to the negotiated price of the vehicle. Most products fill a customer need that when priced and disclosed correctly and can add real value to the whole transaction.
The problems with extras occur in two areas. First, when the sales rep doesn't spend the time necessary to determine which products fit the specific needs of the customer. Rather than suggest specific extras individually priced, the sales rep lumps all the products together and pushes you to buy them as a package.
Second, unscrupulous sales reps can add thousands of dollars to the amount financed for these products, but not disclose the price increase until the last possible moment, when the financing contracts are being signed.
3.) Documentation and Administration Fees
Federal, state, and local governments are pushing more and more of their regulatory cost onto the local dealerships. In an effort to offset some of these fees and services dealers are required to perform, most add, a documentation or administration fee to the total cost of the transaction. Depending on state and local regulations, fee adding $100 to $150 seem reasonable and cover most of these additional items. These services include:
* Duplicate Title Fees
* Notice of Security Interest (to perfect lien)
* 30-day Permits
* Federal terrorist matching data bases
* Federal information privacy requirements
* State vehicle id verification
* Highway Patrol Inspections for out-of-state titles
* Registering leases at customer's county of residence
* Carfax
* FedEx charges/Shipping charges
* Additional title addendums
* Truth in lending record retention
Some dealers have taken up the practice of marking up documentation and administrative fees and are now charging as high as $300 to $500 per sale. A few are even higher. The charge for most of these fees seems to be more based on getting a customer to pay extra after the customer has finished negotiating, not the average amount it cost to get most deals through various state and federal regulations, as implied.
4.) Ask for a Menu System Disclosure
The best disclosure method I've seen in years involved using a menu system. On a separate sheet of paper the rep produces a document that includes:
1.) The negotiated price of the vehicle or trade difference
2.) The additional price of suggested extras (these can be shown as various option packages that may save money when bought in combination and as individually priced options)
3.) New totals initialed by both parties
This procedure makes sure that any suggested extras are properly explained and disclosed. It also allows the customer time to consider each item separate from the longer and potentially confusing finance documents. The final numbers from the menu should get carried over directly to the finance document.
5.) Other Costs
When buying a car, remember that there are other "hidden" costs (or, costs that aren't usually considered), that go beyond the dealership.
During the lifetime of your vehicle, you're going to have to pay for registration and tags, taxes, insurance, oil changes and fuel every year, and periodically pay for maintenance and repairs. Older models (cars more than 3-5 years old) may cost less up front, but you will likely need to factor more maintenance and repair costs into your budget than if you bought a newer model. While new models need fewer repairs and maintenance work, you will have to pay more up front.
Your wallet does not have to go through the ringer the next time you decide to visit a new or used car dealer. You can protect yourself from blindly signing into an unfavorable car deal by doing your homework, going to a car dealership with a good reputation, being prepared, asking questions, and double checking behind your sales rep.
About The Author
Scott Conklin is president of Conklin Cars, a Salina new/used car dealer (http://www.conklincarssalina.com/), Hutchinson new/used car dealer (http://www.conklincarshutchinson.com/), and Newton new/used car dealer (http://www.conklinnewton.com/) in Kansas.
by: Scott Conklin
Before purchasing your next car, you're going to want to check for hidden costs, add-on fees, and other charges. You could end up spending hundreds, even thousands, of dollars over the lifetime of your loan.
Once you've found the car you want, it's time to sit down with your sales rep to negotiate the terms of your contract. After a little back and forth on price, figuring out your interest rate, and calculating your monthly payment, you're ready to sign on the dotted line, right?
Not so fast.
When you read the fine print you may find that additional fees and charges have found their way into your contract – including add-ons you didn't necessarily ask for.
Most car buyers are so focused on getting the best interest rate and negotiating the most affordable monthly payment that they're unconcerned with the fine print of the contract. By the time they get to the step where they review and sign the paperwork, if the sales rep is throwing industry terms at them that they don't fully understand, they're becoming exhausted from the entire process and just want to get it over with.
Here are a few insider tips to make sure you don't regret signing those papers.
1.) Read the Fine Print
While this seems pretty obvious and self-explanatory, it's amazing how trusting the consumer can be. Honestly, the last time you bought a car, did you read and fully understand the contract before you signed it? Probably not. Most people don't.
Some unscrupulous car dealerships are betting on that. Because most people don't read the fine print, some sales reps can slide in additional, undisclosed charges or extras with huge mark-ups to their profit.
Also, make sure there are no blank spaces on your finance contract that can be filled in later – wherever there are blank spaces, write in "$0" or "N/A."
2.) Typical Extras
Most of us are familiar with learning about the standard features of an automobile and then figuring out which additional features we are willing to pay extra for, but here are some extras to look out for when reviewing your contract:
* Rust proofing
* Extended warranty
* Fabric protector
* Car alarm (including Lojack, a device police use to find your car if you report it stolen)
* Paint sealant
* Credit life insurance
* GAP
* Window etching
The value of such extras depends on individual customer needs and situations. If the sales rep attempts to tell you that some or all of these extras are standard for every vehicle on the lot, ask to order your car from the factory, or suggest the dealership trade with another dealer that hasn't pre-packaged their vehicles.
Extra products can add thousands to the negotiated price of the vehicle. Most products fill a customer need that when priced and disclosed correctly and can add real value to the whole transaction.
The problems with extras occur in two areas. First, when the sales rep doesn't spend the time necessary to determine which products fit the specific needs of the customer. Rather than suggest specific extras individually priced, the sales rep lumps all the products together and pushes you to buy them as a package.
Second, unscrupulous sales reps can add thousands of dollars to the amount financed for these products, but not disclose the price increase until the last possible moment, when the financing contracts are being signed.
3.) Documentation and Administration Fees
Federal, state, and local governments are pushing more and more of their regulatory cost onto the local dealerships. In an effort to offset some of these fees and services dealers are required to perform, most add, a documentation or administration fee to the total cost of the transaction. Depending on state and local regulations, fee adding $100 to $150 seem reasonable and cover most of these additional items. These services include:
* Duplicate Title Fees
* Notice of Security Interest (to perfect lien)
* 30-day Permits
* Federal terrorist matching data bases
* Federal information privacy requirements
* State vehicle id verification
* Highway Patrol Inspections for out-of-state titles
* Registering leases at customer's county of residence
* Carfax
* FedEx charges/Shipping charges
* Additional title addendums
* Truth in lending record retention
Some dealers have taken up the practice of marking up documentation and administrative fees and are now charging as high as $300 to $500 per sale. A few are even higher. The charge for most of these fees seems to be more based on getting a customer to pay extra after the customer has finished negotiating, not the average amount it cost to get most deals through various state and federal regulations, as implied.
4.) Ask for a Menu System Disclosure
The best disclosure method I've seen in years involved using a menu system. On a separate sheet of paper the rep produces a document that includes:
1.) The negotiated price of the vehicle or trade difference
2.) The additional price of suggested extras (these can be shown as various option packages that may save money when bought in combination and as individually priced options)
3.) New totals initialed by both parties
This procedure makes sure that any suggested extras are properly explained and disclosed. It also allows the customer time to consider each item separate from the longer and potentially confusing finance documents. The final numbers from the menu should get carried over directly to the finance document.
5.) Other Costs
When buying a car, remember that there are other "hidden" costs (or, costs that aren't usually considered), that go beyond the dealership.
During the lifetime of your vehicle, you're going to have to pay for registration and tags, taxes, insurance, oil changes and fuel every year, and periodically pay for maintenance and repairs. Older models (cars more than 3-5 years old) may cost less up front, but you will likely need to factor more maintenance and repair costs into your budget than if you bought a newer model. While new models need fewer repairs and maintenance work, you will have to pay more up front.
Your wallet does not have to go through the ringer the next time you decide to visit a new or used car dealer. You can protect yourself from blindly signing into an unfavorable car deal by doing your homework, going to a car dealership with a good reputation, being prepared, asking questions, and double checking behind your sales rep.
About The Author
Scott Conklin is president of Conklin Cars, a Salina new/used car dealer (http://www.conklincarssalina.com/), Hutchinson new/used car dealer (http://www.conklincarshutchinson.com/), and Newton new/used car dealer (http://www.conklinnewton.com/) in Kansas.
New Auto Purchase: Lease Vs. Buy
New Auto Purchase: Lease Vs. Buy
by: Brad Upshaw
Essentially, Leasing is just an alternative way to finance a new vehicle. We know that when purchasing a new vehicle the down payment, sales tax and license fees are required to be paid up front. However when leasing a new vehicle you are required to pay only the first monthly payment, a security deposit (usually same as monthly payment), and the license fees. The sales tax (which is based on the capitalized value of the vehicle) is actually amortized over the term of the lease in most states. In other words, the taxes are included in the monthly payments.
Capitalized Cost
Essentially the capitalized cost of a new vehicle is the actual price you have agreed to pay for the vehicle.
Gross Capitalized Cost
The gross capitalized cost of a new vehicle includes the selling price of the vehicle (which is the capitalized cost plus acquisition fees, extended warranty, accident & health insurance, dealer title fee, payoff on your trade-in, credit life insurance, gap insurance and any other fees the dealer decides to charge you). Buyer beware; that most people really don't ever know what their capitalized cost is because it is buried within the gross capitalized cost and the dealer doesn't actually reveal this number unless he has to. Most car deals made at auto dealerships are negotiated on the basis of payment rather than price. This applies to both leasing and purchasing. Don't get caught in this trap! Make the dealer reveal the selling price for every payment offer he makes you!
Adjusted Capitalized Cost
The adjusted capitalized cost of a new vehicle is the gross capitalized cost minus (-) your down payment, net trade-in amount, rebates, license fees and taxes along with any other deductions given.
Depreciation/Residual
When purchasing a new vehicle your payments are based on the full value or selling price, plus extended warranty, tax & license, minus (-) rebate, down payment and net trade-in value. However, when you lease a vehicle your payments are based only on the "depreciation or your use" of the vehicle during the entire term of the lease. The depreciation is actually only a portion of the capitalized cost of the vehicle and is determined by the term of the lease, number of miles driven and condition of the vehicle at the end of the lease. The payments on a lease are based on the deprecation money factor (which is a form of interest rate) and the amortized taxes. Therefore, you can actually drive a more expensive vehicle with a lower payment if you lease. Please note that the depreciation is actually estimated and set at the inception of the lease.
The residual is the portion or balance of the adjusted capitalized cost after the deprecation has been deducted. The residual is just put aside in limbo until the end of the lease. The higher the residual - the lower your monthly payment. At the end of the lease you have two options. You can either turn the vehicle back into the bank or leasing company, or you can buy the vehicle outright for the residual balance. You can even refinance the residual. But keep in mind if you turn in the vehicle with more mileage than allowed on your contract, you will be charged any where from .12¢ to .25¢ for each extra mile. In an auto lease you are limited to a specific number of miles in your lease contact. The average would be from 12,000 to 15,000 miles per year. You may drive any number of miles in any given year but you cannot exceed the number of allotted miles or you will be penalized. If you purchase the vehicle the charge for the extra mileage will normally be waved. Most banks and finance companies will allow you to add an extra 15,000 to 20,000 miles to your lease contract depending on the term of the lease. However, the cost of the extra miles will be added to your gross capitalization cost and your monthly payment will be increased accordingly.
Ownership
When you have entered into a lease contract you cannot terminate the lease or turn-in your vehicle prior to the ending date of the contract. If you do this the bank will report this as a voluntary repossession on your credit record. On an auto lease the vehicle is actually registered and titled to the bank or leasing company. Therefore you do not own the vehicle, the bank does. You get to use the vehicle and are legally responsible for the upkeep and maintenance. Please note, if you don't maintain the vehicle during the lease you will be penalized for all excessive wear-and-tear when you turn it in. Also, if you really needed to get out of your lease you can buy out of the lease if you can get the financing or you can get someone to take over your lease. Of course, they will have to qualify.
Vehicle Warranties
The average new car warranty is 36 months or 36000 miles, which ever comes first. It is not recommended that you enter into a 4, 5 or 6 year lease contract because they are not economical. Even with a four-year lease it is common for the residual to be higher than the actual value of the vehicle at the end of the lease which makes it very hard to refinance. If you are like a lot of people you can lease a new vehicle every 2 to 3 years and never have to buy an extended warranty. The only time it would be beneficial to buy an extended warranty is if you knew you were going to buy the vehicle outright at the end of the lease.
Gap Insurance
Gap Insurance is basically insurance coverage on the difference between the actual value of your vehicle and the balance you owe on the lease including the residual. This kind of protection is needed in case your vehicle is involved in an accident and is declared a total loss. Gap Insurance is important especially for people who lease vehicles. The lease on a vehicle is actually designed for the balance owed to be upside-down in relation to the actual value of the vehicle until approximately the end date of the lease term. At this time the residual should fall in line or be equal to the vehicle's actual value. Gap Insurance is good for purchase financing as well. The gap is not as large as in leasing, but you still stand the chance of having to put out a great deal of money.
Final Advice
Remember, there are two main factors you must consider when you are thinking about leasing an automobile. The first is how long you intend to keep the vehicle and the second is how many miles you travel annually. If you intend to keep the vehicle a maximum of three years and you only average 15,000 miles a year, then you should definitely consider leasing. If you want to keep the new vehicle for more than three years, you should consider purchasing.
When you lease a vehicle, you very rarely have to put any money down, so lease a new vehicle every two to three years and you won't owe any money on the old vehicle, plus you'll never have to buy an extended warranty. Also, you will have spent a ton of money less for each vehicle than if you had purchased them. If you want to keep a vehicle longer just buy it at the end of the lease.
Remember, don't let the dealer try to sell you on the basis of payments. Negotiate on the price only and when you have agreed on the price then tell them you have a trade-in. When you have agreed to your trade-in value then tell them you want to lease the new vehicle. Now you know what to do from here. Also, dealerships have a tendency to quote lease payments without the monthly tax. This makes a big difference in the monthly payments. If you don't control this you will be sadly surprised when you go into the finance manager to sign the paperwork. One more thing - when you are signing the lease contract, be sure to verify that the trade-in value you have agreed upon is actually deducted from the capitalized cost. Otherwise the dealer could wind up purchasing your trade for pennies and you would never know.
Visit My site http://autopurchasesecrets.com for more free information on the secrets the dealerships don't want you to know.
About The Author
Brad Upshaw spent thirteen years in the Automobile business, specifically auto sales and worked for several Dealerships. He held positions from Retail Salesman up through New Car Manager and Fleet Manager. During this period Brad received an excellent education on what goes on inside the Automobile Dealerships. You can visit and communicate with Brad at his website http://autopurchasesecrets.com.
by: Brad Upshaw
Essentially, Leasing is just an alternative way to finance a new vehicle. We know that when purchasing a new vehicle the down payment, sales tax and license fees are required to be paid up front. However when leasing a new vehicle you are required to pay only the first monthly payment, a security deposit (usually same as monthly payment), and the license fees. The sales tax (which is based on the capitalized value of the vehicle) is actually amortized over the term of the lease in most states. In other words, the taxes are included in the monthly payments.
Capitalized Cost
Essentially the capitalized cost of a new vehicle is the actual price you have agreed to pay for the vehicle.
Gross Capitalized Cost
The gross capitalized cost of a new vehicle includes the selling price of the vehicle (which is the capitalized cost plus acquisition fees, extended warranty, accident & health insurance, dealer title fee, payoff on your trade-in, credit life insurance, gap insurance and any other fees the dealer decides to charge you). Buyer beware; that most people really don't ever know what their capitalized cost is because it is buried within the gross capitalized cost and the dealer doesn't actually reveal this number unless he has to. Most car deals made at auto dealerships are negotiated on the basis of payment rather than price. This applies to both leasing and purchasing. Don't get caught in this trap! Make the dealer reveal the selling price for every payment offer he makes you!
Adjusted Capitalized Cost
The adjusted capitalized cost of a new vehicle is the gross capitalized cost minus (-) your down payment, net trade-in amount, rebates, license fees and taxes along with any other deductions given.
Depreciation/Residual
When purchasing a new vehicle your payments are based on the full value or selling price, plus extended warranty, tax & license, minus (-) rebate, down payment and net trade-in value. However, when you lease a vehicle your payments are based only on the "depreciation or your use" of the vehicle during the entire term of the lease. The depreciation is actually only a portion of the capitalized cost of the vehicle and is determined by the term of the lease, number of miles driven and condition of the vehicle at the end of the lease. The payments on a lease are based on the deprecation money factor (which is a form of interest rate) and the amortized taxes. Therefore, you can actually drive a more expensive vehicle with a lower payment if you lease. Please note that the depreciation is actually estimated and set at the inception of the lease.
The residual is the portion or balance of the adjusted capitalized cost after the deprecation has been deducted. The residual is just put aside in limbo until the end of the lease. The higher the residual - the lower your monthly payment. At the end of the lease you have two options. You can either turn the vehicle back into the bank or leasing company, or you can buy the vehicle outright for the residual balance. You can even refinance the residual. But keep in mind if you turn in the vehicle with more mileage than allowed on your contract, you will be charged any where from .12¢ to .25¢ for each extra mile. In an auto lease you are limited to a specific number of miles in your lease contact. The average would be from 12,000 to 15,000 miles per year. You may drive any number of miles in any given year but you cannot exceed the number of allotted miles or you will be penalized. If you purchase the vehicle the charge for the extra mileage will normally be waved. Most banks and finance companies will allow you to add an extra 15,000 to 20,000 miles to your lease contract depending on the term of the lease. However, the cost of the extra miles will be added to your gross capitalization cost and your monthly payment will be increased accordingly.
Ownership
When you have entered into a lease contract you cannot terminate the lease or turn-in your vehicle prior to the ending date of the contract. If you do this the bank will report this as a voluntary repossession on your credit record. On an auto lease the vehicle is actually registered and titled to the bank or leasing company. Therefore you do not own the vehicle, the bank does. You get to use the vehicle and are legally responsible for the upkeep and maintenance. Please note, if you don't maintain the vehicle during the lease you will be penalized for all excessive wear-and-tear when you turn it in. Also, if you really needed to get out of your lease you can buy out of the lease if you can get the financing or you can get someone to take over your lease. Of course, they will have to qualify.
Vehicle Warranties
The average new car warranty is 36 months or 36000 miles, which ever comes first. It is not recommended that you enter into a 4, 5 or 6 year lease contract because they are not economical. Even with a four-year lease it is common for the residual to be higher than the actual value of the vehicle at the end of the lease which makes it very hard to refinance. If you are like a lot of people you can lease a new vehicle every 2 to 3 years and never have to buy an extended warranty. The only time it would be beneficial to buy an extended warranty is if you knew you were going to buy the vehicle outright at the end of the lease.
Gap Insurance
Gap Insurance is basically insurance coverage on the difference between the actual value of your vehicle and the balance you owe on the lease including the residual. This kind of protection is needed in case your vehicle is involved in an accident and is declared a total loss. Gap Insurance is important especially for people who lease vehicles. The lease on a vehicle is actually designed for the balance owed to be upside-down in relation to the actual value of the vehicle until approximately the end date of the lease term. At this time the residual should fall in line or be equal to the vehicle's actual value. Gap Insurance is good for purchase financing as well. The gap is not as large as in leasing, but you still stand the chance of having to put out a great deal of money.
Final Advice
Remember, there are two main factors you must consider when you are thinking about leasing an automobile. The first is how long you intend to keep the vehicle and the second is how many miles you travel annually. If you intend to keep the vehicle a maximum of three years and you only average 15,000 miles a year, then you should definitely consider leasing. If you want to keep the new vehicle for more than three years, you should consider purchasing.
When you lease a vehicle, you very rarely have to put any money down, so lease a new vehicle every two to three years and you won't owe any money on the old vehicle, plus you'll never have to buy an extended warranty. Also, you will have spent a ton of money less for each vehicle than if you had purchased them. If you want to keep a vehicle longer just buy it at the end of the lease.
Remember, don't let the dealer try to sell you on the basis of payments. Negotiate on the price only and when you have agreed on the price then tell them you have a trade-in. When you have agreed to your trade-in value then tell them you want to lease the new vehicle. Now you know what to do from here. Also, dealerships have a tendency to quote lease payments without the monthly tax. This makes a big difference in the monthly payments. If you don't control this you will be sadly surprised when you go into the finance manager to sign the paperwork. One more thing - when you are signing the lease contract, be sure to verify that the trade-in value you have agreed upon is actually deducted from the capitalized cost. Otherwise the dealer could wind up purchasing your trade for pennies and you would never know.
Visit My site http://autopurchasesecrets.com for more free information on the secrets the dealerships don't want you to know.
About The Author
Brad Upshaw spent thirteen years in the Automobile business, specifically auto sales and worked for several Dealerships. He held positions from Retail Salesman up through New Car Manager and Fleet Manager. During this period Brad received an excellent education on what goes on inside the Automobile Dealerships. You can visit and communicate with Brad at his website http://autopurchasesecrets.com.
The Art Of Parts: Finding The Right Source Online
The Art Of Parts: Finding The Right Source Online
by: James Brown
If you need a part for last year's Ford Focus, it's not hard to find. Any Ford dealer and some independent mechanics probably have them on their shelves waiting to pop them under your hood.
But if the love of your automotive life is a 1966 Mustang or your father's 1986 Cadillac, the part you are looking for is lost in a maze of grease-lined storage boxes in someone's warehouse. In that case, finding the right part for your car isn't just mechanics, it's art. The internet has taken that art and made it accessible to mechanics and car collectors with its vast collection of databases, car club forums, and dealer web carriers.
Everything Old Is Still Available
Car part shopping for older model cars is made for the internet. Searchable databases allow you to specify year, make, model and special designation so the right part for your car can be found no matter how old the vehicle may be. No more frustrating days of hearing the mechanic say, "They don't make that gasket anymore." Now a car part not acquired in a local store can be searched for and found in the storage houses, junkyards, or garages of pack-rats anywhere. Car restorers have found this feature of internet shopping most appealing for finding original parts to complete their masterpieces.
Across the Miles
The other market that is aided tremendously by online shopping is parts for foreign cars or parts for cars no longer sold in the US that are still being manufactured in other countries. Speaking the universal language of commerce, foreign car sales databases carry parts and equipment, including metric tools and gauges, available to any buyer. For restorers of the classic VW Bug, this is welcome news. The old Bug is no longer sold in the United States, but is still manufactured, serviced and driven in Mexico. Parts for US mechanics don't require a trip across the border, just a click and some international postage. The internet's range of reach ensures any part you need can be secured no matter what nation your car hails from.
By the Dozen
A final plus to internet car part shopping is the ability to buy in bulk. No longer do independent mechanics need to go to distributors to buy a case or gross of a part, they can now process the order through an online facility and let that company deal with the hassles of distributorship. While taking out the middle man is a national past-time, sometimes putting the middle man back in the process can save you time and effort so you spend your efforts under the hood where they belong.
When http://Carparts.com associated its online store with Motor Trend magazine in 2000, analysts called the move a brilliant venture to ensure their 1.5 million inventory of parts could be accessed by anyone who needed to find something. Since that time, more websites have joined in the fray. Consumers have discovered that finding a special part for their car is no long a fool's errand, but a smooth and well designed masterpiece.
About The Author
James Brown writes about http://www.carstruckspartsaccessories.com
by: James Brown
If you need a part for last year's Ford Focus, it's not hard to find. Any Ford dealer and some independent mechanics probably have them on their shelves waiting to pop them under your hood.
But if the love of your automotive life is a 1966 Mustang or your father's 1986 Cadillac, the part you are looking for is lost in a maze of grease-lined storage boxes in someone's warehouse. In that case, finding the right part for your car isn't just mechanics, it's art. The internet has taken that art and made it accessible to mechanics and car collectors with its vast collection of databases, car club forums, and dealer web carriers.
Everything Old Is Still Available
Car part shopping for older model cars is made for the internet. Searchable databases allow you to specify year, make, model and special designation so the right part for your car can be found no matter how old the vehicle may be. No more frustrating days of hearing the mechanic say, "They don't make that gasket anymore." Now a car part not acquired in a local store can be searched for and found in the storage houses, junkyards, or garages of pack-rats anywhere. Car restorers have found this feature of internet shopping most appealing for finding original parts to complete their masterpieces.
Across the Miles
The other market that is aided tremendously by online shopping is parts for foreign cars or parts for cars no longer sold in the US that are still being manufactured in other countries. Speaking the universal language of commerce, foreign car sales databases carry parts and equipment, including metric tools and gauges, available to any buyer. For restorers of the classic VW Bug, this is welcome news. The old Bug is no longer sold in the United States, but is still manufactured, serviced and driven in Mexico. Parts for US mechanics don't require a trip across the border, just a click and some international postage. The internet's range of reach ensures any part you need can be secured no matter what nation your car hails from.
By the Dozen
A final plus to internet car part shopping is the ability to buy in bulk. No longer do independent mechanics need to go to distributors to buy a case or gross of a part, they can now process the order through an online facility and let that company deal with the hassles of distributorship. While taking out the middle man is a national past-time, sometimes putting the middle man back in the process can save you time and effort so you spend your efforts under the hood where they belong.
When http://Carparts.com associated its online store with Motor Trend magazine in 2000, analysts called the move a brilliant venture to ensure their 1.5 million inventory of parts could be accessed by anyone who needed to find something. Since that time, more websites have joined in the fray. Consumers have discovered that finding a special part for their car is no long a fool's errand, but a smooth and well designed masterpiece.
About The Author
James Brown writes about http://www.carstruckspartsaccessories.com
Get a Lot Done With a Caterpillar Wheel Loader
Get a Lot Done With a Caterpillar Wheel Loader
by: Rene Knops
Caterpillar is one of the largest manufacturers of heavy machinery in the world. Their offerings include, trucks, excavators, mining equipment, and of course, the Caterpillar wheel loader. Caterpillar offers a complete line of these machines, including the world's largest wheel loader – the 994F. Whether you need the relatively small compact model 904B, at 9,800 pounds and operating at 52 horsepower, or the hulking 994F at 430,000 pounds and 1,463 horsepower, there's a Caterpillar wheel loader for your job application. Choose from different attachments, depending on the Caterpillar wheel loader you decide to buy, like an angle broom, high dump bucket, or light material bucket.
Caterpillar wheel loader cabs offer comfort and modern design to make using these piece of heavy equipment easy and pleasant. Improved viewing range has been created by adding floor length windows, compacting the dash, and contouring the hood so that it blocks a minimum of viewing area. Controls have been simplified to a standard joystick that lets you control most aspects of your Caterpillar wheel loader's operation. The cab's also spacious, with lots of room to store equipment and other necessary objects. It features an adjustable seat with suspension to give you an easy ride, no matter what the terrain, front and rear wipers, power sockets, and a tool box you can lock for security and convenience. The dash of a Caterpillar wheel loader is easy to read, with back lit displays that are sealed to keep dust and water from putting them out of service.
Larger models of Caterpillar wheel loader offer add ons like coal and rock buckets for heavy duty tasks, and operate on powerful engines. They include strong joints and seals throughout the Caterpillar wheel loader to make sure that everything stays functional, even with rough use. Advanced engineering means that the brakes, engine, and other systems have been designed to increase efficiency and decrease wear and tear. The Caterpillar wheel loader is a well designed machine for any use.
If you're considering getting a wheel loader, look to Caterpillar. There's a model of Caterpillar wheel loader to fit your job. Caterpillar certified dealers are easy to find, and can help you determine just what you need in a piece of heavy equipment. Caterpillar also offers a great service plan and OEM parts to make sure that everything keeps running the way you want it to. For lasting durability and power, many people have relied on Caterpillar for decades. Using a Caterpillar wheel loader in your work can help you get more tasks done in less time, and will last through even the toughest jobs. Caterpillar is among the world leaders in heavy machinery. Join many satisfied customers, and test a comfortable, well designed, new or used Caterpillar wheel loader today. You could be pleasantly surprised by the experience.
About The Author
René Knops is an avid writer. He enjoys construction and heavy equipment. Backhoes He owns and operates http://www.backhoeshelper.com BackhoesHelper.com
by: Rene Knops
Caterpillar is one of the largest manufacturers of heavy machinery in the world. Their offerings include, trucks, excavators, mining equipment, and of course, the Caterpillar wheel loader. Caterpillar offers a complete line of these machines, including the world's largest wheel loader – the 994F. Whether you need the relatively small compact model 904B, at 9,800 pounds and operating at 52 horsepower, or the hulking 994F at 430,000 pounds and 1,463 horsepower, there's a Caterpillar wheel loader for your job application. Choose from different attachments, depending on the Caterpillar wheel loader you decide to buy, like an angle broom, high dump bucket, or light material bucket.
Caterpillar wheel loader cabs offer comfort and modern design to make using these piece of heavy equipment easy and pleasant. Improved viewing range has been created by adding floor length windows, compacting the dash, and contouring the hood so that it blocks a minimum of viewing area. Controls have been simplified to a standard joystick that lets you control most aspects of your Caterpillar wheel loader's operation. The cab's also spacious, with lots of room to store equipment and other necessary objects. It features an adjustable seat with suspension to give you an easy ride, no matter what the terrain, front and rear wipers, power sockets, and a tool box you can lock for security and convenience. The dash of a Caterpillar wheel loader is easy to read, with back lit displays that are sealed to keep dust and water from putting them out of service.
Larger models of Caterpillar wheel loader offer add ons like coal and rock buckets for heavy duty tasks, and operate on powerful engines. They include strong joints and seals throughout the Caterpillar wheel loader to make sure that everything stays functional, even with rough use. Advanced engineering means that the brakes, engine, and other systems have been designed to increase efficiency and decrease wear and tear. The Caterpillar wheel loader is a well designed machine for any use.
If you're considering getting a wheel loader, look to Caterpillar. There's a model of Caterpillar wheel loader to fit your job. Caterpillar certified dealers are easy to find, and can help you determine just what you need in a piece of heavy equipment. Caterpillar also offers a great service plan and OEM parts to make sure that everything keeps running the way you want it to. For lasting durability and power, many people have relied on Caterpillar for decades. Using a Caterpillar wheel loader in your work can help you get more tasks done in less time, and will last through even the toughest jobs. Caterpillar is among the world leaders in heavy machinery. Join many satisfied customers, and test a comfortable, well designed, new or used Caterpillar wheel loader today. You could be pleasantly surprised by the experience.
About The Author
René Knops is an avid writer. He enjoys construction and heavy equipment. Backhoes He owns and operates http://www.backhoeshelper.com BackhoesHelper.com
5 Ways To Avoid Getting Ripped Off When Buying A Car
5 Ways To Avoid Getting Ripped Off When Buying A Car
by: Ben Hefflinger
If you are like most people today, buying a car is not on your list of “Top ten most enjoyable experiences.” The negative connotation that the automotive industry carries is directly related to how business is conducted. The back and forth games played by the salesperson and manager are designed to maximize dealer profits, ultimately leaving the customer browbeaten and disgusted. However, the dealer knows that the reason the customer is in front of them is because they NEED a car. The dealer has the advantage. However, going into the dealership as an informed and prepared consumer turns the tables on them. Here is an abbreviated guide to saving yourself THOUSANDS on your next car.
1. Understand the Game. Know that when stepping foot inside a dealership, you have just entered what they call their “control zone.” The entire sales process is specifically calculated to maximize the amount of money you are going to spend. Know that you will not be able to march into a dealership and demand numbers; most dealerships require that you test drive the vehicle before numbers are even considered. Know that when numbers are discussed, the first and second set of numbers that the salesperson comes back with, are NOT the best number. Know that it is a game!!!
2. Research the Vehicle. Go into the dealership with an idea of what the car costs the dealership. Know that you will not pay this number. Everyone is entitled to make a profit. What you should do at this point is decide what you feel is a fair mark-up, and negotiate accordingly.
3. Credit vs. APR. The APR you will pay on your next vehicle, or in the case of leasing: the money factor, is directly proportional to your credit score. The banks and other lending institutions calculate their risk based on your credit score. Generally, a person with good credit is less of a risk, and will therefore will have a lower APR/ monthly payment, and vice versa. Go into the dealership knowing what finance rates are available. You can check today’s real time best rates here.
4. Trade Value. Go into the dealership with an idea of what your trade is worth. Kelly Blue Book is one of the leading sources for this information. However, I caution you in taking what KBB quotes as gold. KBB does not sell cars and is not used by the automotive industry. The dealerships use the values that the cars are selling for at auction. If the dealer is unable to sell the car on their lot, they take them to auction. Therefore, dealers are for the most part, unwilling to pay more than the auction prices. KBB is generally anywhere from $1500-$2500 higher than the auction pricing.
5. Consult Professional Car Buyers. Yes, they do exist. They are known as Auto Brokers. Generally retired auto salesman, brokers are able to bypass all of the legwork that was described previously. They have excellent knowledge of the GAME that is played, but have decided to play on the other team. With the customers interests in mind, they able to get down the bottom line price and cut out the hassles involved in the process. We recommend Negotiation Free Inc. because they are like no other broker. They do not charge the customer for their services. They are 100% compensated out of advertising expenses that the dealerships allocate for every car. Because it costs the dealership nothing to sell the car, they are able to use the advertising fund to compensate Negotiation Free. You can research Negotiation Free by visiting their website http://www.NegotiationFree.com.
Purchasing your next vehicle should not be the grueling the process that you have come to understand. By preparing yourself, and enlisting the knowledge of professionals, the purchase of your next car is going to be not only an exciting but enjoyable process.
About The Author
Ben Hefflinger is Vice president of http://negotiationfree.com and carries over ten years in the auto industry.
by: Ben Hefflinger
If you are like most people today, buying a car is not on your list of “Top ten most enjoyable experiences.” The negative connotation that the automotive industry carries is directly related to how business is conducted. The back and forth games played by the salesperson and manager are designed to maximize dealer profits, ultimately leaving the customer browbeaten and disgusted. However, the dealer knows that the reason the customer is in front of them is because they NEED a car. The dealer has the advantage. However, going into the dealership as an informed and prepared consumer turns the tables on them. Here is an abbreviated guide to saving yourself THOUSANDS on your next car.
1. Understand the Game. Know that when stepping foot inside a dealership, you have just entered what they call their “control zone.” The entire sales process is specifically calculated to maximize the amount of money you are going to spend. Know that you will not be able to march into a dealership and demand numbers; most dealerships require that you test drive the vehicle before numbers are even considered. Know that when numbers are discussed, the first and second set of numbers that the salesperson comes back with, are NOT the best number. Know that it is a game!!!
2. Research the Vehicle. Go into the dealership with an idea of what the car costs the dealership. Know that you will not pay this number. Everyone is entitled to make a profit. What you should do at this point is decide what you feel is a fair mark-up, and negotiate accordingly.
3. Credit vs. APR. The APR you will pay on your next vehicle, or in the case of leasing: the money factor, is directly proportional to your credit score. The banks and other lending institutions calculate their risk based on your credit score. Generally, a person with good credit is less of a risk, and will therefore will have a lower APR/ monthly payment, and vice versa. Go into the dealership knowing what finance rates are available. You can check today’s real time best rates here.
4. Trade Value. Go into the dealership with an idea of what your trade is worth. Kelly Blue Book is one of the leading sources for this information. However, I caution you in taking what KBB quotes as gold. KBB does not sell cars and is not used by the automotive industry. The dealerships use the values that the cars are selling for at auction. If the dealer is unable to sell the car on their lot, they take them to auction. Therefore, dealers are for the most part, unwilling to pay more than the auction prices. KBB is generally anywhere from $1500-$2500 higher than the auction pricing.
5. Consult Professional Car Buyers. Yes, they do exist. They are known as Auto Brokers. Generally retired auto salesman, brokers are able to bypass all of the legwork that was described previously. They have excellent knowledge of the GAME that is played, but have decided to play on the other team. With the customers interests in mind, they able to get down the bottom line price and cut out the hassles involved in the process. We recommend Negotiation Free Inc. because they are like no other broker. They do not charge the customer for their services. They are 100% compensated out of advertising expenses that the dealerships allocate for every car. Because it costs the dealership nothing to sell the car, they are able to use the advertising fund to compensate Negotiation Free. You can research Negotiation Free by visiting their website http://www.NegotiationFree.com.
Purchasing your next vehicle should not be the grueling the process that you have come to understand. By preparing yourself, and enlisting the knowledge of professionals, the purchase of your next car is going to be not only an exciting but enjoyable process.
About The Author
Ben Hefflinger is Vice president of http://negotiationfree.com and carries over ten years in the auto industry.
Bad Credit Car Loans Make Car Buying Easy For Bad Creditors
Bad Credit Car Loans Make Car Buying Easy For Bad Creditors
by: Julia Russell
Does bad credit really has anything to do with a car? The answer says that it has nothing to do with a car. Still, most of the bad credit holders are found to be in puzzle whenever they are in a thought of buying a car. It is obvious however, not justified. It is not justified because when you have loans like bad credit car loans why you should get puzzled at all? There is nothing to worry when you are buying a car, at least don’t get afraid of the bad credit stint you have got.
Bad credit car loans are there to hook you off any money lacking when you are going to buy your chosen car. This car can be of any type, of any brand. For all, you can have bad credit car loans. However, bad credit car loans are also advanced for buying any old car apart from the new car. Here you are also getting a whopping 90% of your requirement as car loans for a term ranging over 2 to 7 years. And, this huge amount has hardly anything to do with your bad credit rating.
There is a huge galaxy of car loan providers waiting for you online to give you the bad credit car loans at cheap rates. Interest rates become cheap in the web market, first because there is large chunk of lenders aggravating the competition among them which makes the rates cheap enough. Also, you will have a large array of choices to find the right deal. Again, there is another benefit of going online. Here, the bad credit car loans are only clicks way from you. You have only to fill a small application form and get the best of loan quotes before you.
However, loans become incredibly cheap when they are secured in nature. In secured bad credit car loans, your collateral playing as the security of the lenders gives you the cheap loans. Unsecured bad credit car loans are also no less. They offer you the bad credit car loans without charging any collateral.
Bad credit car loans have done a great thing by simply putting forward car loans to the bad credit holders who otherwise would have remained puzzled for ever. Now, the puzzle is over as the bad credit car loans are there.
About The Author
Julia Russell works as an executive in financial department for Secured Car Finance. She has a lot of experience in finance field. To find Bad credit car loans, secured car finance, used car finance, new car finance, personal car finance, online car finance, car loans visit http://www.securedcarfinance.co.uk/
by: Julia Russell
Does bad credit really has anything to do with a car? The answer says that it has nothing to do with a car. Still, most of the bad credit holders are found to be in puzzle whenever they are in a thought of buying a car. It is obvious however, not justified. It is not justified because when you have loans like bad credit car loans why you should get puzzled at all? There is nothing to worry when you are buying a car, at least don’t get afraid of the bad credit stint you have got.
Bad credit car loans are there to hook you off any money lacking when you are going to buy your chosen car. This car can be of any type, of any brand. For all, you can have bad credit car loans. However, bad credit car loans are also advanced for buying any old car apart from the new car. Here you are also getting a whopping 90% of your requirement as car loans for a term ranging over 2 to 7 years. And, this huge amount has hardly anything to do with your bad credit rating.
There is a huge galaxy of car loan providers waiting for you online to give you the bad credit car loans at cheap rates. Interest rates become cheap in the web market, first because there is large chunk of lenders aggravating the competition among them which makes the rates cheap enough. Also, you will have a large array of choices to find the right deal. Again, there is another benefit of going online. Here, the bad credit car loans are only clicks way from you. You have only to fill a small application form and get the best of loan quotes before you.
However, loans become incredibly cheap when they are secured in nature. In secured bad credit car loans, your collateral playing as the security of the lenders gives you the cheap loans. Unsecured bad credit car loans are also no less. They offer you the bad credit car loans without charging any collateral.
Bad credit car loans have done a great thing by simply putting forward car loans to the bad credit holders who otherwise would have remained puzzled for ever. Now, the puzzle is over as the bad credit car loans are there.
About The Author
Julia Russell works as an executive in financial department for Secured Car Finance. She has a lot of experience in finance field. To find Bad credit car loans, secured car finance, used car finance, new car finance, personal car finance, online car finance, car loans visit http://www.securedcarfinance.co.uk/
Buying Car Finance Is Easy With Online Facility and Security Assurance
Buying Car Finance Is Easy With Online Facility and Security Assurance
by: John Marshall
Buying a car is not so tough if you have got enough money in your pocket. But, buying it becomes somewhat difficult when you don’t have the pocket full. So, what you should do when don’t have the bucks you need for buying your car? Well, when buying car finance is not a tough job, why should you quiver at all?
Buying car finance is easy since it is available online. Most of the lenders of car finance keep the web flocked because the car finance processing becomes real easy there. There is no paper work involved in the online processing. So, most of the lenders as well as the borrowers prefer to be there. The lender’s reason is explained, and the borrowers go there because there are lenders there in a mass. So, it is obvious that the rates will be cheap there. Borrowers have got more choices of easy buying car finance and compare from a large number of quotes. So, buying car finance is easy there.
If you go for buying car finance, it is of two types, both the secured and unsecured. If you go for the secured one, you have to pledge collateral in lieu of which you will get easy terms and low rates as well. However, buying unsecured car finance also means that you can grab the benefit of fiancé without any collateral. You can go for buying car finance for a term ranging anywhere between 2 to 7 years while the amount advanced goes up to a whopping 90% to 100% of your requirement. Also, you can go for buying car finance for any car of your choice. It can be a new one or old one or it can be of any brand.
Moreover, buying car finance is not only easy for the people with shining credit chart, but also for the bad credit holders. Only they have to pay the interest rates with a slight surge. Yet, this remains modest because of the online platform. So, buying car finance is always easy, whatever be your position.
About The Author
John Marshall is a financial analyst at Online Car Finance. In recent years he has taken up to provide independant financial advice through his informative articles. To find Buying Car Finance, bad credit car financing, cheap car finance, bad credit car finance, car finance loan, used car financing visit http://www.onlinecarfinanceuk.net
by: John Marshall
Buying a car is not so tough if you have got enough money in your pocket. But, buying it becomes somewhat difficult when you don’t have the pocket full. So, what you should do when don’t have the bucks you need for buying your car? Well, when buying car finance is not a tough job, why should you quiver at all?
Buying car finance is easy since it is available online. Most of the lenders of car finance keep the web flocked because the car finance processing becomes real easy there. There is no paper work involved in the online processing. So, most of the lenders as well as the borrowers prefer to be there. The lender’s reason is explained, and the borrowers go there because there are lenders there in a mass. So, it is obvious that the rates will be cheap there. Borrowers have got more choices of easy buying car finance and compare from a large number of quotes. So, buying car finance is easy there.
If you go for buying car finance, it is of two types, both the secured and unsecured. If you go for the secured one, you have to pledge collateral in lieu of which you will get easy terms and low rates as well. However, buying unsecured car finance also means that you can grab the benefit of fiancé without any collateral. You can go for buying car finance for a term ranging anywhere between 2 to 7 years while the amount advanced goes up to a whopping 90% to 100% of your requirement. Also, you can go for buying car finance for any car of your choice. It can be a new one or old one or it can be of any brand.
Moreover, buying car finance is not only easy for the people with shining credit chart, but also for the bad credit holders. Only they have to pay the interest rates with a slight surge. Yet, this remains modest because of the online platform. So, buying car finance is always easy, whatever be your position.
About The Author
John Marshall is a financial analyst at Online Car Finance. In recent years he has taken up to provide independant financial advice through his informative articles. To find Buying Car Finance, bad credit car financing, cheap car finance, bad credit car finance, car finance loan, used car financing visit http://www.onlinecarfinanceuk.net
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